Have you ever wanted to have warm slippers that will keep you warm in the most severe frosts? We bring to your attention a detailed master class on felting knitted socks the lazy way, or rather, in the washing machine. This master class details formulas for calculating knitting density, taking into account the shrinkage of wool yarn after felting. Preliminary calculations in this method of felting play a key role if, as a result, you do not want to end up with baby booties instead of men's slippers. It is worth noting that felting should only be done from wool yarn; various synthetic additives are not allowed.
Materials
Yarn Our Village 01 natural color (90 g/170 m, 100% wool), knitting needles 4.5 mm.
Before you start working on the socks themselves, you need to knit a couple of samples. Since it was difficult to decide which knitting method was preferable, I knitted three samples on 3 mm knitting needles: stockinette stitch, pearl stitch and garter stitch. Based on samples that have not yet been processed, it is necessary to determine the knitting density for future socks:
18 p. and 23 r. = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette stitch
16 p. and 27 r. = 10x10 cm pearl knitting
16 p. and 32 r. = 10x10 cm in garter stitch
After that, I threw them into the machine, selected the “cotton” mode for the washing machine, set the temperature to 60 degrees and washed these samples. Let's look at the result, the sample made with stockinette stitch has the following dimensions: 8 cm horizontally and 7 cm vertically, in total the knitting density has changed and is now 23 sts and 33 r. The total horizontal shrinkage is 22%, and vertical shrinkage is 30%.
The sample knitted with pearl knitting shrinks the least, its density is 20 p. and 34 r. The structure of the canvas has also undergone the least changes. Let's move on to a sample made in garter stitch. It turned out to be denser and thicker than the others. The density after felting is 21 p. and 38 r.
The pattern with stockinette stitch turned out to be the most successful, so we will knit the socks this way. Let's start with the calculations: the shrinkage coefficient is 18 points/23 points = 0.78. The ankle girth is 23 cm, which means that 23 cm will ultimately be 52 loops (23 cm * 2.3 sts = 52 loops), divide this number of loops by the resulting coefficient: 52 sts/0.78 = 66 loops are needed for the initial row.
So, cast on the calculated number of loops and knit the socks in the usual way. I knitted for foot size 36. This is what happened. To say that these socks look huge is an understatement. After both socks are knitted (by the way, exactly one skein of yarn was used for one such sock), it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. Let's take several bags, the bags need to be non-colored, otherwise you can ruin the socks. The bags are needed so that during felting the undersides of the socks do not fall together. We lay the bags and sew them with regular cotton thread of a neutral color.
That's it, let's go play. We set the washing machine parameters described earlier, load the socks and start the cycle. After the machine has finished washing, we take out our socks and see that these are now good homemade felt boots. The result exceeded all expectations! A photo of the finished socks is published at the beginning of the master class.
If the first time your socks do not fall to the required size, then you should not despair. To correct the situation, just repeat the wash cycle with the same parameters.
Good luck with your lazy time in the washing machine!
There were holes in the warm, soft woolen Mongolian socks. I turned them over and over, wondering from which side and with what tools to approach them... I remembered that I had a certain amount of wool for felting. Well, in reserve. Why not try another experiment and start your first steps in felting by darning socks? I tried it and I’m very pleased with the result! I'm sharing with you!
So, there are socks that require darning, wool and a needle for felting, and a foam sponge. Let's get started.
Turn the sock inside out, put a sponge on the hole in the floor, and smooth it out.
We tear off small strands of wool and cover the hole with them.
We begin to felt the wool with a felting needle.
Let's continue...
It's already beautiful. This is the wrong side.
Turn it inside out. It turned out so fluffy. Here I inserted the sponge again and pressed it further on the front side. If you feel that it is a little thin in some place, add wool and roll it down.
She wet the sock and lathered it up.
At first I don’t rub too hard, then I increase the pressure.
I turn it inside out and repeat everything from the inside out.
I'm checking. The fur has not yet fallen, we must continue.
I rinse well and dry.
Finished heel from the inside out...
and from the front side.
The patch turned out soft and dense, just like it was!
They are knitted from wool threads that are not intended for machine washing (Superwash), but only FOR HAND WASHING. The threads can be either 100% wool or wool with an artificial admixture, I repeat, the main thing is that they must have a “Hand Wash” icon (maybe there are threads that cannot be washed at all, but I have never seen them).
There are special threads that say they are for felting (filzen), but ordinary woolen threads are also suitable. The yarn can be any kind, be it home-spun, factory-spun, natural, or dyed.
The thicker the threads intended for thick knitting needles, the thicker the finished product will be. I like threads for needles number 8, there are also threads for needles number 6 and 7, I also knitted one pair from number 6. I have not yet come across threads for needles N 9 or 10.
After washing, the product shrinks 30-40%, to find out, you need to knit a test piece, measure, wash and measure again, we will see the shrinkage. But this is terribly boring for me, I knit at random according to the table (see below), as it turns out, so it turns out, it will suit someone;0).
Basically, it is true everywhere that they are felted at 40°C, but at this temperature only one pair of slippers took the required size for me, the rest had to be turned 2-3 more times with increasingly hot water. For some, 50° was enough, for others as much as 60°. So now, at my own peril and risk, I wash immediately at 60°. It may well be that my machine does not heat the water well, I don’t know, so I’ll have to try it.
Threads from the same company and the same type and name, but with a different color, are felted differently, most likely it depends on the dye, they have different compositions, maybe the wool for some colors is bleached, I don’t know, but apparently they have a different effect on the wool .
It’s better to wash with something hard, I’ve already read that it’s good with jeans. The machine should not be tightly packed; socks should roll freely. It is recommended to wash several pairs at a time and throw in several tennis balls with them; they hit and rub our blanks, which helps the socks feel matted. I washed with balls when I knitted several pairs, collected 3 pairs and put them into the machine, but now I don’t knit so much, and I want to see the result sooner, so I washed, for example, with 2 sauna towels, ordinary bath-sized towels, and also threw in balls.
The program should be set to the most ordinary one, not “easy”, add a little powder, no rinse aid is needed. After washing, stretch the socks into the correct shape, it is best to pull them on the desired leg and you can even walk or sit in them so that the shape is strengthened. Stuff the newspaper in, then it will hold its shape when drying. Many people put sneakers that are 2 sizes too small into wet slippers. When drying, they shrink a little more, keep this in mind, so stuff newspapers tightly or, as I said, let them dry on your feet (my youngest wanted to dry his so much, that’s probably why they became the nicest and most beautiful)))).
I forgot to write right away, I'm editing.
The socks are terribly slippery and I think they wear out quickly too, so I coat my feet with liquid latex and buy them at a store that sells threads. Dries quickly, not hard, not slippery.
Well, we've passed the theoretical part, let's get to work.
We will need:
wool threads intended for hand washing in non-hot water;
2 long knitting needles or knitting needles on fishing line;
5 knitting needles for knitting socks;
a thick darning needle with a large hole or a large hook for assembling the workpiece.
Using long or circular knitting needles, cast on the number of stitches required for your foot size (line 2 in the table) (line A in the table 3).
We knit the required number of rows (in table page B) one knit row, the next purl row, etc.
Now we cast on 2 loops, divide them into 4 knitting needles and knit in the round, like normal socks. How many closed rows to knit can be seen in the table. p. S.
Close the sock by knitting the last 2 stitches together on each needle. When there are 2 loops left on each knitting needle (or 2x2 and 2x3 loops), cut the thread and pull it through the loops and tighten.
We stitch the thread with a needle or crochet. Sew at the back of the heel.
Example on foot size 37, for knitting needles number 8, this is the blue table:
We cast on 32 loops on round or long knitting needles, knit 32 rows, alternating a knit row and a purl row. We throw on 2 more loops, we get 34 loops, divide them into 4 knitting needles: 8, 9, 8, 9 loops. We knit 24 rows.
Here I have a problem, because... I can’t figure out whether to start cutting after 24 rows or if the shortened rows are included in these 24 rows. I tried this way and that, but the threads shrink differently and I still haven’t figured out which is better and how it should be.
We begin to cut the last two loops on each needle in each row and at the end we get 2,3,2,3 loops on the needles. We pull the thread through the loops and sew it up.
Sock size 38: 
The first line in the tables shows how many 50g balls of thread are needed for one pair of slippers.
D-last line is the length of the finished socks after washing in cm.
PINK table for threads and knitting needles N 6
BLUE table for threads and knitting needles N 8.
Before washing, size 40 and 37, the thread for the gray socks was 100% wool, undyed, natural color, for knitting needles 7 or 8, I knitted with 8. The red ones were also 100% wool, but special. for felting, slightly thicker thread and for knitting needles 8. .
Fur is a multifaceted material in its properties and capabilities; it can be made into a small toy or cozy socks, which you can give as a fashionable and practical gift to your loved ones. Socks can be made to any size, length, color, additions, lace, ribbon embroidery. The main thing is that the child’s feet are warmed up and surrounded by care.
What you need
- 40 G Wool;
- Ruler;
- Laundry soap;
- Mosquito Net (Tulle);
- Bubble film (2 pieces - 50*50 cm);
- Rolling pin;
- Sponge.
Management
- Prepare a soap solution. Coarsely grate a bar of soap with 2 liters of boiling water. Stirring regularly until the soap is completely dissolved, leave for about 2 hours, the solution should thicken.
2. Make 2 sock templates from foil. Then start the fur at the top of the boot.
3. While working, pay attention to the thickness of the hair strand, the alignment and placement of your hand. Continue from the middle of the shin, spreading the wool in a dark shade until you cover the entire cut surface.
4. Extend the second layer, set the pink curls in a vertical position, and the dark angle at 90°. Also, at the bottom border, lay another row of yarn perpendicular to the edge.
5. Cover the workpiece with tulle (lattices) and wet the wool with a sponge (through the tulle) with a warm soapy solution. Next, iron for about 1 minute.
6. Remove the grille, fold the top edge 1 cm, Fix, smoothing the wool vertically. Now they cover the piece of bubble wrap, turn it to the other side so that the film is on the bottom.
7. Wrap all over the wool for reasons of texture, stretch, folds and furrows. Repeat the steps described earlier, showing first the bright pink yarn and then the darkness. For the second layer, repeat the operation with the mesh, soaking the parts in soapy water.
8. Cover with bubble wrap, use a rolling pin with light pressure in 2 directions. Follow the steps described in the roll with the rolling pin on the other side. Later, having rolled the product onto a rolling pin, roll the “role” of the movement “from yourself to yourself”, about 10 times. Repeat this step in quadruples, in different directions: up, heels, soles.
9. Remove the tape by carefully ironing the wool around the edge. Add a little soap so that your hands glide over the treatment item. Repeat the operation in a similar way on the other side to turn the semi-finished product.
10. Remove the template, put it on the future sock on your hand and carefully go over the folds, even all types of wrinkles. If necessary, pull the product slowly during the procedure.
11. Repeat the ironing steps, only without the rolling pin, roll 50 times. Consistently roll the sock into a tube in 4 directions and roll it onto the table 30 times on each side. Regularly guides its edge. Gradually the yarn begins to shrink. Prepare the second sock.
12. In the final line, check the size, sock and include the required size by following these steps: remember a little, product, knead like dough, roll like a ball, rub per film.
13. Then even rinse so that there is no soap left. Click so as not to rotate. They form socks, examples on the foot, let dry. Decorate the finished socks as you wish.
