Good day, dear sewing lovers!

A zipper is the most common type of fastener for a skirt.

Today, there are several options for making a zipper on a skirt. The choice of method depends on the stylistic features of the model, on the place on the skirt where the zipper is planned, sometimes depends on the properties of the material from which the skirt is sewn, but in no case is the choice of method made according to the principle “here it’s easier, simpler, faster - I will choose this method.” The methods are not equivalent.

These are the methods:

1. A closed zipper in the seam where the edges of the product are positioned end to end.
2. Closed zipper in the seam where the edges of the product are located end to end, hand sewn.
3. A closed fastener in the seam, where the zipper is moved under one of the edges of the fastener.
4. Open in-seam zipper.
5. The open zipper is not in the seam.
6. Concealed zip fastening.

A closed zipper in the seam where the edges of the product are positioned end to end.

Until recently, this method of making a zipper on a skirt was the most popular and most used. Nowadays, the hidden zipper closure is hot on its heels (see below in the article).

From a technological point of view, there is nothing complicated in making a zipper in a seam, where the edges of the product are located close to each other. I placed the zipper under the pressed seam allowances and stitched it down. “That’s the whole story.”

However, in making a zipper fastener on a skirt using this method, there are several subtle components that, nevertheless, greatly influence the result. As popular wisdom says: “The devil is in the details.”

The most, not that difficult, no, rather vulnerable “section” in this whole process is the implementation of the last and most important line - the delay of the frame around the zipper. Regardless of how it is made, the fastener will definitely work. Well, the fact is that there, around the zipper, the material can be very pulled together, the stitching is not even... Many people can live with this, I can’t.

Today I want to offer you, dear sewing lovers, this method of making a closed zipper in a seam, where the edges of the product are located end to end, which will allow you to make such a fastener, even if it’s imperfect, but at least get closer to the ideal.

The zipper fasteners, which will be discussed later in the article, on the skirt are made in the middle seam of the back panel (in the center of the back panel). Both sides of the finished clasp, left and right, look the same.

First of all, since another, more convenient opportunity will no longer present itself, the cuts of the seam allowances on both parts (on the left and right halves of the back panel) are processed from fraying.

And we immediately determine the location of the snake (the cut for the zipper).

At the top we take into account the seam allowance (from 0.7 cm to ∞ (according to the model)). And also, the upper zipper stops should be 3 - 5 mm below the waist seam line.

From below, the end of the cut for the zipper should be below the lower stopper of the snake and even below those, albeit insignificant, but still remnants of the zipper teeth below the stopper that we inherited from its production.

Only by stepping back from obstacles by 0.5 cm, we thereby give sewing machine freedom of movement. After all, it will be much easier to sew a stitch on a woven ribbon, while it will be more difficult to “crawl” over metal or plastic parts.

Up to the bottom mark, we connect both sides of the back panel with a machine stitch (threads in the color of the main material).

We finish the stitching at the mark with a bartack.

We also stitch the parts using a machine, but with a temporary auxiliary stitch (the threads are contrasting with the main color tone of the product). The stitching is done without bartacks along the edges.

If the material from which the skirt is made is not obedient, and you already understand that it will not allow you to lay an even and beautiful stitch, you will have to stabilize it with a suitable adhesive cushioning material. For this purpose, strips of non-woven fabric 1 cm wide are suitable, and the length is the length of the zipper cut to the mark, plus 1.5 - 2 cm.

We use strips of adhesive pads to reinforce the material of the main parts (butt to the line of the auxiliary stitch).

If the fabric is even more stubborn, you can also tighten the seam allowances along the cut.

Iron the completed seam.

Place the zipper in the space allocated for it, face down on the pressed seam allowances between the main parts.

First we baste with a hand stitch. The zipper can be glued to the allowances with textile glue, using a special basting adhesive tape, using a special adhesive pencil, etc.

Then, if there are no needle puncture marks left on the fabric, the zipper can be “basted” with a machine stitch. The stitch is placed at the edge of the zipper strips, randomly, using contrasting threads. The main thing is that it keeps the material from wrinkling.

The last and most important thing left is to stitch the frame around the zipper. To make the line even, it needs to be laid using some kind of guide. For example, a stitch line can be marked with marking tools, a basting stitch, either by hand or by machine. You can use the parts of the foot and the sewing machine itself as a guide. Etc.

It is impossible to lay a line along the zipper at the zipper lock. When making a frame around the zipper, the sewing machine will need to be stopped to move the lock higher or lower along the chain of closed teeth. Since the cut remains stitched, you can easily move the zipper lock when the lock handle is turned up. She does not and he easily moves along the lightning.

The sewing machine needle should remain in the material (in the down position), and the presser foot should be raised.

The stitching around the zipper is laid at a distance of 0.4 - 0.7 cm (depending on the properties of the fabric and the size of the zipper links) from the middle seam line on both sides. The stitch width of the stitching must be at least 3 mm. The wider the stitches, the better the zipper stitching will end up looking. The stitching is done with threads matching the color of the material. Unless, of course, the opposite is intended as finishing.

The stitching is done using a special foot - a foot for sewing in zippers. This foot, as a rule, comes in a set of mandatory sewing tools for almost everyone. sewing machines. Presser feet from different sewing machine manufacturers differ significantly in structure and shape. But they all work on the same principle. They allow the sewing machine to lay a stitch along those places on the product that, for one reason or another, rise above the working surface of the sewing machine.

First, the stitching is laid along the left side of the back panel from top to bottom.

Then, at the mark (end of the cut), leaving the sewing machine needle in the material, and lifting the presser foot, turn it 90⁰

and make a small section of the bottom of the frame to the desired width.

The width of the seam on the other side of the frame should be exactly the same as on the first. Therefore, the last stitch of the line laid along the bottom of the frame may have to be increased or decreased (depending on the situation) in order to “fit” into the required parameters. For example, my previous cross stitch is 4 mm long, and the next one is already 3 mm long.

To accurately get to the desired size, when performing a cross stitch, you should stop, leave the needle in the material, lift the presser foot, turn the product 90⁰ and thus check the distance.

Having completed the transverse stitch, we finally turn 90⁰ and now from bottom to top we continue to sew the right side of the frame.

We remove all auxiliary hand and machine stitches. And here it is in front of you, the finished closed zipper in the seam, where the edges of the product are located end to end.

All “secrets” can be neglected if the fabric is obedient and easy to sew off. For example, medium density and very dense cotton fabrics, linen, denim, twill, gabardine made from natural fibers, etc.

Closed zipper in the seam where the edges of the product are located end to end, hand sewn.

On many complex fabrics, for example, such as satin, or on fabrics with pile, brushed, etc., for example, velvet, velor, panvelvet, corduroy, fleece, etc., adjusting a zipper is associated with enormous difficulties. Machine stitching around the zipper on these fabrics is too disruptive. appearance sewn product, crushing unsightly pile (combing, etc.) or significantly damaging the material.

When sewing a skirt from such fabrics, the zipper for fastening can be sewn on by hand.

First, as in the first case (see above in the article), we use stitching stitches to connect two parts, in the seam between which the zipper will be made. Up to the line of the “cut for fastening” mark, the stitching with a tack at the end is made with threads in the color of the material, higher in contrast.

The completed seam is ironed.

We put the zipper in the place allotted to it,

baste (glue, etc.)

The stitch with which the zipper is sewn to the product is hand stitching with loop stitches, in other words,

From the front side, 1-2 threads are picked up with a needle; from the back side, the stitch length should be no more than 6 mm.

In principle, any of the options for making a zipper on a skirt provided in this article can be done by hand stitching. If, of course, there is a need for this.

The fastener is closed in the seam, but the zipper is moved under one of the edges of the fastener.

By doing a zipper on a skirt in this way, we seem to hide the zipper under one of the folds of the fabric. The zipper most often moves under the left side of the clasp, although this is not a strict rule.

A closed fastener in a seam, where the zipper is moved under one of the edges of the fastener, is performed either in the side seam, which happens more often, or in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt.

We begin the implementation of the “zip fastener in a skirt” project with: 1) processing the cuts of the allowances of the parts in the seam, between which the fastener will be located, 2) by marking the length of the cut for the fastener (marking features can be seen in option No. 1 of the zipper fastener on the skirt (see . above in the article)).

Again, if the fabric is slippery or very plastic, etc., we stabilize its mobility with a suitable adhesive pad. On the left side the width is 1.5 cm, on the right - 1 cm. On the right part of the back panel we stabilize only the material of the main part, on the left the entire area, including allowances.

If the fabric is very unobedient, we “glue” the allowances together.

To obtain an even fastener, we “draw” several auxiliary lines with a sewing machine. (Threads contrasting to the main fabric).

Seam line on both pieces

and seam allowance hem lines on the right piece.

The last line should be 3mm from the seam line on the right side.

Seam allowance on the right side along the “end of the snake” line

cut, not reaching the seam line in which the fastener is made, 1 - 2 mm.

Having folded the allowance along the hem line, we sweep part of it to the wrong side.

Iron the resulting fold.

We put a zipper under the right part

so that the fold of the allowance along the entire cut line on the right part lies exactly butted up to the chain of teeth on the zipper.

At a distance of 2 mm from the fold, we lay a machine stitch, which adjusts the zipper to the edge of the cut on the right side. (Threads in the color of the fabric).

A skirt is the most ancient and feminine item in the wardrobe of women of all ages. Zippers are often used in sewing skirts. In this article we will tell you different options on how to correctly sew a zipper into a skirt so that the product looks beautiful and neat.

How to sew a hidden zipper to a skirt

If you are still an inexperienced seamstress, it is best to sew the zipper into the back seam of the skirt, since if you sew the zipper into the side seam incorrectly, the fabric may warp. The back seam is the most symmetrical; it is much easier to sew a zipper into it than into the side one.

1. First, you need to lay out the product on a flat surface with the wrong side out.
2. Unzip the zipper and place one side against the seam so that its teeth are close to the edge of the fabric.
3. Attach the zipper with needles from top to bottom and baste.
4. After this, you need to attach the second side of the zipper, but you need to start from the bottom, from the beginning of the zipper, where the slider is located. The fabric should not be stretched or deformed.
5. Only after this do we sew the zipper to the skirt, making sure to tie the knots by hand. Since the zipper is hidden, you must first fold back the seam allowances, iron them, and only then attach the zipper so that the teeth fit snugly to the edge of the fabric.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt with a belt

If the belt has an additional fastener - a button or hooks - then the zipper should begin exactly where the belt ends. If the belt does not require additional fastenings, then you need to sew in a zipper starting from the top point of the product. In this case, as in all other cases, you need to sew the zipper from top to bottom. Then the fastener will not deform the fabric, and sewing it on will be convenient.

After you have attached the zipper, its upper edges need to be hidden under the belt. They can be folded and additionally stitched. In other cases, strips of fabric are placed on top to prevent the zipper from scratching the back.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt without a belt

If the skirt does not have a belt, then you need to choose a tight zipper that will not unfasten. At the same time, the algorithm for the final actions when sewing a skirt is different. First you sew in the zipper, and only after that you fold the top edge of the skirt and sew it on a machine so that the zipper fabric is hidden under the fabric. In this case, the teeth of the zipper should be strictly at the same level with the edge of the skirt.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt without a seam

Sewing a zipper into a skirt without a seam is very simple. But, the main thing is that at the bottom of the zipper, where the fastener ends and the skirt begins, the seams are carefully placed. The video instructions below describe in detail this method of using zippers in skirts. At the same time, there are ways to sew a zipper into a skirt carefully and by hand, without using a sewing machine.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt fold

A pleated skirt requires more work and skill. It is especially important to carefully sew the zipper into the fold of the skirt.

How to sew a side zipper into a skirt

If you want to place a zipper on the side of the product, then you should know a few nuances. The back seam of the skirt is located symmetrically, and the zipper in it stretches evenly in both directions. If the zipper is located in the side seam, and it is not sewn correctly, then the product may squint, the fabric itself may gather in waves, and the zipper may not fit tightly to the body. These nuances are very noticeable and spoil the silhouette. Therefore, the zipper - the final element of the skirt - must be given maximum attention.

The video provides detailed instructions.

How to sew a metal zipper into a skirt

Metal zippers are used not only as a functional part of the product, but also as decoration. In this case, metal zippers are both sewn into the skirt and sewn on top. The color of the zipper may contrast with the color of the main fabric. If you are a beginner seamstress, then it is best to choose a zipper color that matches the product and sew the zipper from the wrong side.

To do this, it is necessary, as when working with a regular zipper, to first sweep away the fastener and the product. The main thing is that the teeth of such a zipper were visible from the front side, so it is better to retreat 0.5 centimeters from the edge of the fabric.

How to properly sew a zipper into a skirt - video

The video clearly shows all the nuances that need to be taken into account when working with lightning correctly.

A simple zipper with plastic teeth is used, as a rule, to process fasteners on skirts, jackets, and trousers. In this lesson we will look at two options for positioning the zipper in the fastener - in the center of the cut and offset to one edge.

How to sew a regular zipper in the center

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the cut mark for the fastener (Fig. 1). Secure the top of the seam and finish the thread.

Rice. 1. Stitch the parts of the product along the seam to the cut mark

Stitch the open section of the seam (under the zipper) using an auxiliary stitch with a stitch length of 4 mm (Fig. 2). This way, after sewing in the zipper, this auxiliary stitch will be easier to remove.

Rice. 2. Stitch the open area for the zipper

Press the seam allowances and finish them with an overlock stitch.

Rice. 3. Processing seam allowances with bias tape

On the wrong side, pin the zipper in the center of the seam.

Rice. 4. Pin the zipper

Baste the zipper using basting stitches.

Rice. 5. Baste the zipper with pins

Install a special zipper foot on the sewing machine, sew the zipper on the front side of the product, stitching at a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the seam. Remove the basting.

Rice. 6. Sew the zipper

Using a buttonhole ripper, open the auxiliary stitch and remove the threads.

Rice. 7. Open the auxiliary seam

Iron the product from the front side through a moistened iron (cotton damp cloth).

Rice. 8. Finished zipper

How to sew a zipper offset to the edge

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark.

Rice. 1. Stitch the seam up to the zipper cut

Iron seam allowances and finish.

Rice. 2. Iron seam allowances

Under the right side of the cut, baste one side of the zipper close to the teeth. Install a special zipper foot and stitch the zipper along the edge. To make it easier to stitch the entire length of the zipper, unzip it.

Rice. 3. Stitch the zipper along the left side

When there is 2 cm left to stitch to the bottom of the zipper, close the zipper without interrupting the stitching and finish the stitching. To close the zipper, use our advice: insert a thread folded several times into the loop of the zipper dog, and lift the foot.

Rice. 4. Thread the thread through the loop of the zipper dog

Pull the thread and close the zipper.

Rice. 5. Pull the thread and close the zipper

Finish the stitching to the bottom of the cut, secure the threads and trim the ends of the threads.

Rice. 6. Finish the line

Place the other side of the product over the zipper, pin it in place and baste.

Rice. 7. Pin the right side of the zipper

Starting at the bottom, sew a short horizontal stitch, then turn the piece 90 degrees and continue stitching the left side of the zipper. Sew the stitch at a distance of 0.6-0.7 cm from the center.

Rice. 10. Finished zipper

Now you know how to sew a zipper, share it with others on social networks! After all, knowledge is the only wealth that can be shared and nothing can be lost, but only gained!

How to carefully, beautifully and simply sew in a zipper (not a hidden one).

There are many ways to sew in a zipper, I would like to suggest trying one of them - not difficult to perform, but with an unusual order of operations.

Use soap to mark the stitching line for the seam where the zipper will be and pin together the details of the product.

Sew along the marked line using the largest stitch.

This seam will need to be removed at the very end of the work.

Press seam allowances.

Pin one part of the zipper with the right side to the seam allowance, moving the teeth one millimeter away from the seam.

Using a single-sided presser foot, sew a stitch, moving 2 millimeters away from the zipper teeth.

Fasten the zipper and bend it to the other side. Pin to a width of 5-7 millimeters.

Place a stitch, stepping back from the fold by 1-2 millimeters.

Turn the zipper back to the seam allowance and pin the other side of it with pins.

Place a stitch along the second side of the zipper, retreating from the teeth by 2 millimeters.

Turn the piece over to the right side and pin together, marking the finishing stitch line.

Place a finishing stitch, while catching the zipper.

Iron the knot from the front side. Delete the very first line.

Voila! Everything turned out beautifully and neatly!

Another option for sewing in a zipper:

Place one end of the zipper face to face on the seam allowance of the product, which has been previously overcast (here in the photo it is not overcast, since the product was sewn on a lining) and stitch, stepping back from the edge of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Turn back the seam allowances on the product and stitch along the product 1-2 millimeters from the fold.

Sew the second side of the zipper in the same way. In the photo there is a valance detail or placket under the zipper.

And one more option. This involves attaching a zipper from the front side to the product.

You also need to stitch the seam and iron the seam allowances. If necessary, overcast or edge the allowances.
Then turn the piece over to the front side.

Place the zipper and pin it over the seam connecting the parts.

Sew the zipper with a zigzag or other finishing stitch.

Remove the first stitch to connect the parts.

A hidden zipper differs from a regular zipper in that its slider is located with reverse side from the cloves, and the cloves themselves can be bent open. It is the hidden zipper that will allow you to make the fastener on the back of a dress or skirt as invisible and neat as possible.

Our master class will tell you in detail how to sew a hidden zipper, and will also introduce you to general rules working with this type of fastener.

Hidden zipper: basic installation rules

Despite the fact that a hidden zipper is almost invisible from the front side of the product, always choose the color of the fastener to match the fabric: the zipper slider will still be noticeable, and in addition, the product should look professional from the back side. Before installation, be sure to iron the base of the zipper with steam or wash it and then iron it - this will avoid possible shrinkage and tightening of the fabric of the product. It is advisable to strengthen the seam allowances into which you will insert the zipper, especially if your fabric frays a lot or is cut on the bias. It is best to use a special non-woven edge.

Always pin, baste and stitch the zipper with the garment from top to bottom.

There are two opinions about at what stage you need to sew a hidden zipper: into an open seam or into an already stitched one. We recommend not sewing up the main seam or, as a last resort, leaving a few centimeters of the seam unsewn before starting the fastener.

Most modern sewing machines come with a special foot for sewing on zippers. However, there is also a special foot specifically for sewing hidden zipper, and if desired, you can buy it at a sewing accessories store.

Both metal and plastic feet are available for sale. Plastic feet are cheaper, on the other hand, the metal base is more reliable. There will be no scratches on it, which can then impair the sliding of the foot along the fabric. Although a special foot greatly simplifies the work, you can still achieve good results with a simple foot. So, let's learn how to sew a hidden zipper!

Progress

On loose, stretchy or bias-cut fabrics, reinforce the edges with a non-woven edge. Sew using an overlocker or zigzag. Baste the entire seam of the product into which you will sew the zipper.

Press seam allowance. Place the zipper on top of the seam allowance so that the teeth line up with the center seam. The slider should be 1 mm below the intended edge of the product.

Baste the zipper to the fabric in the middle of the braid, catching only the seam allowance of the product. Pull the pins and center seam basting out to the end of the zipper. Open the zipper.

Insert the zipper foot. Set the needle to the far left position. Bend back the teeth and insert the needle as close to the teeth as possible. If you have a foot specifically for a hidden zipper, it will unscrew the teeth itself.

Sew along the entire length of the zipper until the foot rests on the zipper. Make a fastener. Sew the other half, moving the needle to the far right position. Close the zipper. If the zipper peeks out, lay another line, even closer to the teeth.

Now sew the main seam under the zipper. Place the needle to the far right. Start the seam 5-10mm above the end of the zipper stitch. Insert the needle, stepping back from the zipper seam by 1 mm.

Finish the seam to the bottom of the product. Press the seam allowances from the wrong side.