A gusset is a small piece of fabric inserted into a slit on the bottom sleeve of a kimono. Since the sleeves are cut in one piece with the front and back of the product, they have a long shoulder line on the outside and an extended line of the side and underarm seams. The gusset is needed so as not to restrict the movement of the hand. Below you will learn how to use sleeve gussets.

One piece insert

The one-piece gusset is a diamond-shaped piece of silence. The flap is inserted into the incision left in the elbow area after stitching the long lateral and axillary seams of the product.

Two-piece insert

Two-piece gussets are made from two triangular-shaped flaps. One is sewn to the front of the product in the elbow area, the other is sewn to the back of the product in the same place, just before the side and armpit seams are stitched.

How to use gussets in sleeves?

If the fabric of the garment is light, the end of the gusset cut should be reinforced before it is cut and the one or two piece gusset is inserted. You can reinforce this end of the cut with a square of fabric or seam tape. On thick or very thick fabrics, stitching in one place is sufficient to reinforce the end of the cut.

We strengthen the cut for the gusset with a square of fabric

Mark the stitching lines for the gusset with tailor's chalk. Cut a square of fabric with a side of 5 cm on the bias. Place the square centered on top of the end of the cut, right sides facing in. Pin along the edge of the square, then baste (above).

Remove the pins. Mark the end of the cut line stitching on the reinforcement square with tailor's chalk. Then, using a very small stitch in one place, stitch along the cut stitching line through the square at the end (at the top).

Cut the inserts through the center of the cut, cutting through the fabric of the product and the reinforcing square. Be careful not to cut through the stitching at the end of the cut (top). Then remove the basting stitches.

Unfold the square piece onto the wrong side of the fabric and roll the seam along the edge of the cut. Pull the fabric to form the end. Lightly iron the square (left). (Instead of a square, you can use seam tape as a reinforcer (on the right).

Strengthen with tape

Fold a 10 cm long ribbon to form a letter shape. Baste the tape over the end of the cut on the front side. Topstitch the slit in place through the tape.

Inserting a gusset from one piece

Sew a square for reinforcement onto 1 seam under the arm (opposite). Sew the side and underarm seams, leaving the underarm seam open. Place the gusset on the inside of the cut. Align the corners of the gusset with the ends of the seam and cut. Match the seam lines right sides together. Pin the gusset (top).

Working along the wrong side of the gusset, baste it to the opening, to each of the corners, starting and ending in the seam area of ​​the product (above). Leaving pins across the corners, stitch along one edge of the cut, turn around, make one stitch across the corner, turn around and stitch along the other side of the cut.

Remove pins and basting. Make sure the corners are neat on the right side of the piece, then iron along that side. Trim the edges of the reinforcing square and flap at a distance of 1 cm from the overdue. By hand or machine, serge the edges of the flap (above). If necessary, topstitch along the edges of the gusset.

Insert a two-piece gusset

Fold the piece of fabric in half. Lay the two-piece gusset pattern piece onto the fabric so that the seam allowance on the curved center edge of the gusset is aligned with the bias line of the fabric. Pin the pattern through two layers of fabric. Cut out the gusset pieces (above). Cut out the pattern.

With the right sides facing in, pin the outer edges of the front gusset piece to the edges of the cut. Align the cut and gusset seam lines and baste. Leaving pins at the corners, stitch one side of the cut, turn around, stitch across the corner, turn around and stitch the other side.

Sew the back to the product. Sew a zigzag stitch around the edges of the gusset and press it right side together. With the right sides facing in, line up the seam lines of the gusset and join the edges to the gusset. Pin and stitch the bottom of the sleeve, the gusset seam, and the side seam of the garment (on the left).

Smooth out the seams. Zigzag stitch the raw edges of the seam allowances. (Alternatively, you can topstitch along the right side of the garment and the edges of the gusset, going through the fabric of the garment and the seam allowances (opposite).)

In any children's products with pants, be it just pants with an elastic band (strings) or overalls with buttons or straps, or overalls with a zipper or with straps, in the place where the fabric diverges into the legs, I always knit a gusset - this is an additional “piece” "-triangle, performed simultaneously with the main canvas and subsequently giving “freedom of movement” to the child.

After all, a baby’s legs never stand still, and a newborn’s are often higher than his head…. Therefore, such a “trifle” as a gusset must be there - it’s very easy to do during the knitting process, but the main thing is to wear the panties comfortably, and not constantly sew along the seam or darn the resulting holes between the legs)))

VideoMK of gusset knitting technique (step bevel)

for three options for knitting children's items:

1. When knitting a pattern from top to bottom

It is possible to knit a gusset or step bevel in 7-9 rows, depending on the thickness of the yarn. The height of the increases for the gusset is 2-4 cm, the number of rows of decreases is usually the same, then uniform single decreases along the entire length of the trouser leg are made to shape the trouser leg itself, but not to form the gusset. With thinner yarn, you can increase the number of rows of additions, while the knitting principle remains the same.

To calculate the starting point for knitting the gusset: from the waist line (belt, elastic drawstring on pants or the visual line of the middle of the overalls) down, measure the distance to the beginning of the division of the fabric into the legs. And from this parameter subtract the height of the gusset (2-4 cm indicated above). From this row you should start knitting the shs.

Approximate parameters for calculating the start of gusset knitting - according to the diagram

So, the fabric is knitted before the start of knitting the shs, then like this:

— if we knit a product with a fastener in the center of the front(overalls, bib overalls, pants with a fastener at the front)

in the last purl row, mark the center of the fabric along the back with a marker, then

1st row: chrome, knit a stitch according to the drawing until the penultimate stitch before the marker, from which knit 2 stitches from one, 1 stitch according to the drawing, transfer the marker to the right knitting needle, 1 stitch according to the drawing, knit from the next stitch 2 stitches from one, then knit all stitches according to the pattern until the end of the row

2nd row: all sts according to the picture

3rd row: chrome, 2 stitches from one, 2 stitches from one, then all stitches according to the drawing until the penultimate stitch before the marker, from which knit 2 stitches from one, 1 stitch according to the drawing, transfer the marker to the right knitting needle, 1 stitch according to the drawing, from the next stitch knit 2 stitches from one, then knit all stitches according to the drawing until the third stitch from the edge, from which knit 2 stitches from one, 2 stitches from one, 1 stitch . according to the drawing.

4th row: all sts according to the picture

5th row: chrome, 2 sts from one, then all sts according to the drawing until the penultimate st in front of the marker, from which knit 2 sts from one, 1 st according to the drawing, transfer the marker to the right knitting needle, 1 st according pattern, from the next stitch, knit 2 stitches from one, then knit all stitches according to the pattern until the penultimate stitch from the edge, from which knit 2 stitches from one, 1 stitch according to the drawing

Remove the loops after the marker for extra. knitting needle, set aside knitting. Knit each leg separately.

Row 7 (purl): bind off 4 stitches at the same time, knit all stitches according to the pattern until the end of the row

Row 8: knit 2 stitches in, bind off 1 stitch, then knit all stitches according to the pattern until the end of the row

Row 9: knit 2 stitches in, bind off 1 stitch, then knit all stitches according to the pattern until the end of the row

The formation of the ShS is completed.

More details can be found in the photo of MK overalls HERE .

General view of the product

— when knitting a product in the round

in the last purl row, mark the center of the back and the center of the front with markers, then continue like this

1st row: knit to the penultimate stitch from the front center marker, from which knit 2 stitches from one, then knit 1, transfer the marker to the right knitting needle, knit 1, from the next stitch knit 2 stitches from one, then continue knit a row to the penultimate loop from the back center marker, from which knit 2 stitches from one, then knit 1, throw the marker onto the right knitting needle, knit 1, from the next stitch knit 2 stitches from one, then continue knitting the row to the end

2nd row: faces. p.

Row 3: repeat adding stitches in the center front and back in the same way.

4th row: faces. p.

Row 5: Repeat adding stitches in the center front and back in the same way.

Row 6: knits. p.

Starting from the next row of stitches, decrease stitches and continue knitting each pant leg separately as follows:

7th row: knit a row to the front center marker, transfer the loops of the second part of the knitting to the back center marker to additional. knitting needle (pin) and set aside knitting. Turn the knitting needles purlwise. side, bind off the first 4 sts at the same time, then knit purl. to the end of the row

Row 8: cast off the first 4 stitches at the same time, then knit. to the end of the row.

Row 9: cast off 2 stitches at the same time, knit to the end of the row

Row 10: cast off 2 stitches at the same time, knit until the end of the row

The formation of the ShS is completed.

General view of the product

— when knitting panties with a seam in the center of the back

in the last purl row, mark the center of the front with a marker, then knit in a manner similar to the method “ product with a clasp in the center of the front.”

General view of the product

1. When knitting from top to bottom, models with stripes along the entire length (overalls, bib overalls, panties)

In the purl row, mark the center of the fabric with a marker; in the next 3 front rows, knit like this:

1 person row: *knit to the penultimate stitch from the marker, from which knit 2 stitches from one, knit 1, throw the marker onto the right knitting needle, knit 1, from the next stitch knit 2 stitches from one*, then the entire row to the end

All out. knit rows according to the pattern.

2 persons row: chrome, bar loops, knit 1, from the next st, knit 2 sts from one, then knit a row of knits, repeating the additions in the center of the fabric from * to * as in the previous row, then loops to the penultimate one from the bar p., from which knit 2 p. from one, k1, loop of the bar.

3 persons row: repeat the increases as in the 2nd row.

Decreases are made on each leg on both sides of the knitting, after the loops of the straps, 2 stitches are knitted. in each subsequent person. row 3-4 times, then in every second front row another 2-3 times.

General view of the product

​​In products knitted from bottom to top

In this case, the beginning of knitting panties/dungarees/overalls begins with the trouser leg, each of which is knitted separately to the required length, and 2-3 cm before the point of joining both legs into a single fabric, the gusset begins to be knitted in the same way, but in the opposite order, i.e. e. From the edge of each pant leg, multiple increases are made in 3-4 front rows, then decreases are knitted. The order of knitting a gusset in 8 rows:

Left trouser leg.

1st row: chrome, 2 sts from one knit, 2 sts from one knit, knit. loops, from the third loop from the left edge 2 sts from one knit, 2 sts from one knit, chrome.

Row 2: purl all

3rd row: chrome, 2 stitches from one knit, knit. loops, from the penultimate loop from the left edge, 2 stitches from one knit, chrome.

Row 4: purl all

Row 5: cast off 4 sts at the same time, knit to the end of the row.

Row 6: bind off 4 stitches at the same time, knit purl. to the end of the row

Set aside knitting the left leg. Leave the loops open for additional time. knitting needle (pin), break the thread.

Right pant leg.

Knit similarly to the left trouser leg, finishing after the 6th row of shs, leave the loops open on the knitting needle, do not break the thread.

Connecting the legs into a single fabric.

On the right trouser leg at the beginning of the row, knit a hem. and 1 p. knit together, then all knits to the end of the row, attach the loops of the left trouser leg, knit. to the end of the row.

In the next purl. row at the beginning of the row, knit chrome. and 1 p. together purl, continue knitting purl. to the end of the row.

In the next knit row, knit knits. up to 5 central loops connecting the legs. Knit the first two sts together, k1, knit 2, then continue knit to the end of the row.

The formation of the ShS is completed.

General view of the product

Thus, the product has an additional “triangle” knitted between the legs - a gusset. Then, when assembling the product, connect the protruding edges of the “triangles” of both legs, the technical seam will be no more than 3 cm. When knitting with a seam along the back, when making a gusset seam, continue the connection upward with the same thread, sewing the two sides of the fabric with a vertical knitted seam.

Perhaps every mother has encountered a situation where the baby's rompers, which begin to actively crawl or walk, quickly become unusable. This is due to the fact that the design of children's pants is simply not designed for such loads. As a rule, rompers only have side and crotch seams. The latter bear the brunt of the impact - the fabric there wears out very quickly and breaks near the seam. Repeated stitching along the seam will not give results, because the load on it will not disappear anywhere, and therefore the sliders will soon tear again in the same place.

However, this does not mean at all that the torn panties will only have to be thrown away. If desired, they can be restored very simply and quickly by sewing a gusset into the sliders.

If you want to learn how to sew rompers for a newborn with your own hands,

First of all, you need to open the crotch seam. A section 20 cm long (i.e., 10 cm on both sides from the middle of the seam) will be quite enough. Then the sliders need to be pinned together near the cut area, folding them in half. Using tailor's chalk, you need to draw a line along which the worn or torn allowance of the previous seam will be cut off.

After this, from a fabric similar in properties to the fabric of the sliders, you should cut out a gusset - a rhombus with an edge of 7 cm and a height of 6 cm. When cutting, you need to add seam allowances equal to the width of the overlock stitch (5-7 mm).

What can a gusset be made from? For example, from unnecessary knitted items - T-shirts, blouses, etc.

On an unnecessary piece of the same fabric, you should test the overlock stitch and make sure that it is well adjusted, because the quality of the processed unit and the product as a whole depends on this.

Using an overlocker, you need to sew the gusset to the front of the panties. For convenience, it can be pre-basted or pinned.

Then the 2 remaining sides of the gusset need to be stitched to the back of the sliders.

This is how you can quickly and easily sew a gusset not only into rompers, but also into any knitted trousers.

The sliders are ready! Restored in this way, they will last for a very, very long time.

Another hot topic of the season: long one-piece sleeve.

Having mastered this technique, you can easily model different styles of clothes with one-piece sleeves, regardless of the season, type of fabric, etc., guided only by your desires or goals.

When designing a long one-piece sleeve, the angle of inclination of the upper cut is of great importance.

With a slight slope or its complete absence, when the upper line of the sleeve runs horizontally (at a right angle to the lines of the middle back and front), the bodice of the product will have a fairly large volume, a softer shape with slack in the armhole area.

With a large slope of the upper cut of the sleeve, the bodice will have a strict, clear shape in the shoulder and armhole area. Freedom of movement in this case is ensured by the gusset, cut-off barrel, and other design techniques, which we will consider in the following articles.

The width of the sleeve in this design is directly dependent on the angle of inclination of the upper cut and the depth of the armhole. The widest sleeve can be obtained with a minimum angle of inclination of the upper cut and a deepened armhole.

In this article we will look at one of the options for designing a bodice with long one-piece sleeve without gusset (kimono), in which the upper cut is a continuation of the shoulder line.

This design is based on a drawing of a pattern for the base of a dress with a semi-fitted silhouette. If it is necessary to achieve a looser fit, you can increase the loose fit allowance by distributing it evenly between sections of the base mesh (back, armhole and front).

If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, you will need this drawing in the future when mastering the modeling of various types and styles of clothing.

Let's copy the back and front of the bodice of the dress onto a blank sheet of paper. There is no need to transfer all letters and auxiliary lines. Copy only those letters and lines that will participate in the construction. Look at our drawing and the situation will become clearer.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of a one-piece sleeve, it is necessary to fulfill the main condition:

To do this, draw a line from point G4 down to the intersection with the waist line. Together with the side line, we transfer the side dart, as shown in Fig. 2.

In our drawing, point G4 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole. If you are using a base constructed using a different method, divide the width of the armhole in half and draw a vertical line from the division point, thus creating a new side bodice line.

Rice. 2

And one more important note. When designing a soft bodice shape with a long one-piece sleeve, and this is exactly our case, the size of the side dart opening must be reduced to 1.5 cm in each direction. That is, the distance T2T3 = T2T4 = 1.5 cm.
We adjust the tuck solution. See fig. 3.

Rice. 3

Note:
Darts on the waistline of the back and front can be reduced, replaced with gathers or tucks (in accordance with the style of the product).
In products with straight, free shapes, darts at the waist may be completely absent.

Back

To provide additional freedom, we move the line of the shoulder and neck of the back up as follows:
From point A we set aside 0.5 cm upward and place point A11;
From points A4, O and O3 we set aside 0.7 cm upward and place points A41, O11 and O31, respectively;
From point P1 upward we set aside 1.5 cm and place point P11.

These values ​​may fluctuate slightly in one direction or another depending on the tasks set, the type of product, the fabric used and other factors. We use as an example the values ​​most often used in our practice.

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We connect points A11 and A41 with a smooth curve, thereby obtaining a new germ line.

We connect sections A41 O11 and O31 P11 with straight lines, continuing the shoulder cut to the right at a distance equal to the sleeve length measurement. In our example, the sleeve length is 58cm.

Thus, we set aside 58 cm from point P11, and you set aside your sleeve length measurement, and put point C.

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Note:
1. The dart at the back shoulder line can be reduced or completely absent.
2. If the model includes shoulder pads, the shoulder section is additionally raised according to the thickness of the shoulder pad.

The width of the sleeve is determined by the model (style) of the product. If you sew for yourself, the width of the sleeve will depend only on your desire. If you sew for your client, you will have to listen to his wishes.

From point C down at a right angle to the upper cut of the sleeve, draw a straight line, on which we set aside the width of the sleeve plus 2 cm and place point C1.
CC1 = Shr: 2 + 2cm = 36: 2 + 2 = 20cm, and you make the calculation based on your data.

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We draw segment CC1 with a smooth curve. To do this, divide the distance CC1 in half, set point C2, from which we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm to the right. Smoothly connecting points C, C2 and C1 we get a line for the bottom of the sleeve.

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From point C1 to the left, parallel to the upper cut (for a straight sleeve), draw an auxiliary line until it intersects with the side cut. We denote the intersection point with the letter C3.

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IMPORTANT! In this design, the distance G4S3 should not be less than 3 cm. If in your case this distance is less than 3 cm, you need to lower point C3 lower along the side cut to the required value.

Note.
Point C3 can be located anywhere on the side cut of the bodice, even at the waist line.
In our example, the sleeve is straight, so line C1C3 runs parallel to the top cut.

We continue building.
To the right and down from point C3 we set aside a distance equal to the segment Г4С3 and place points 1 and 2. See Fig. 9. This construction can be conveniently done using a compass, using a point C3 as radius.

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We finalize the line of the lower cut of the sleeve and the side line of the bodice with a deflection between points 1 and 2. See Fig. 10. In this area, after cutting, it is done guy.

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If the product is cut along the waistline, in this case, to ensure freedom of movement, it is necessary to lengthen the side cut of the bodice by about 1-1.5 cm. This is done as follows. From point T3 down on the continuation of the lateral line, set aside 1-1.5 cm and place point T31. We draw the waist line with a smooth curve, connecting points T31 and T.

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Shelf.

We reduce the opening of the chest dart by 2 cm. We use a compass to construct it. From point G7, as from the center, through point B9 to the right we draw an arc. Then we place the leg of the compass at point B9 and with a radius equal to 2 cm we make a notch on this arc, denoting the intersection point with the letter B91. We connect points G7, B91 and get a new dart line.

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Now we reduce the shoulder line by the same distance (2cm). To do this, from point P5 to the right along the shoulder line, set aside 2 cm and put the letter P51. We connect points P51 and B91 with a straight line. We connect points P51 and P6 with a smooth curve.

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For further construction, we will close the chest dart (for the duration of construction) and open it at point B3. You can open it in another place, for example, in a dart at the waistline (this is not important).

To do this, connect points G7 and B3 with a straight line, cut the front along this line and close the chest dart, combining points B91 and B7, and at the same time open the dart along line V3G7. See fig. 14.

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We raise the edge of the shoulder up by 1 cm. To do this, from point P51 upward on the continuation of the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and place point P52.

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We connect points B3 and P52 with a straight line, continuing the shoulder cut to the left at a distance equal to the sleeve length measurement and place point C4. In our example, the sleeve length is 58cm.

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From point C4 down at a right angle to the upper cut of the sleeve, draw a straight line, on which we set aside the width of the sleeve minus 2 cm. and put point C5.

In our example, the sleeve width is 36cm.

С4С5 = Шр: 2 - 2cm = 36: 2 - 2 = 16cm You make the calculation based on your data.

We shape the segment C4C5 with a smooth curve. To do this, divide the distance C4C5 in half, put a point C6, from which we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm to the right. Smoothly connecting points C4, C6 and C5 we get the line for the bottom of the front sleeve.

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I would like to draw your attention to the difference in the design of the sleeve hem line on the back and on the front.
If on the back, using the smoothness of the line of the bottom of the sleeve (section CC1), we added 0.5-0.7 cm, then on the front, on the contrary, we “cut off” the same amount, forming a concavity of the line of the bottom of the sleeve (section C4C5).

See fig. 7 (back), fig. 17 (shelf).

From point G4 down the side line of the shelf we set aside a distance equal to the segment G4C3 on the back drawing and put point C7.

We connect points C5 and C7 with a straight line.

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For the next step we will use a compass. From point C7, as from the center, with a radius equal to the distance C7G4, we make marks on the lower cut of the sleeve and on the side cut of the shelf. We denote the intersection points as 3 and 4, respectively.

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In this design, the line of the lower cut of the sleeve smoothly transitions into the line of the side cut of the bodice.
We finalize the line of the lower cut of the sleeve and the side line of the bodice with a deflection between points 3 and 4. Look at Figure 20. In this area, after cutting, we make guy.

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Note.
Point C7 can be located anywhere on the side cut of the bodice, even at the waist line. The main thing is that it corresponds to the position of the C3 point on the back.

IMPORTANT!
Before you start cutting the fabric, you need to check the length of the lower sections of the front and back parts of the sleeve for consistency and, if necessary, adjust. The lower cut of the front part of the bodice can be 1-2 cm shorter, this difference is compensated for by the drawstring.

We return the chest dart to its original position. See Fig. 21.

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Note:
The chest dart in this design can be reduced.
If you are creating a pattern for a figure with a small chest volume (in products up to size 48), the chest dart may be completely absent.

I remind you:
If the product is cut along the waistline, in this case, to ensure freedom of movement, it is necessary to lengthen the side cut of the bodice by about 1-1.5 cm, similar to the back. This is done as follows. From point T4 downwards on the continuation of the lateral line we set aside 1-1.5 cm, put point T41. We form the waist line with a smooth curve, connecting points T41 and T5.

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At this point, the construction of a long one-piece sleeve can be considered complete. All that remains is to add a few comments, using which you can expand the number of bodice options on the same basis.

If you need pattern tapered sleeves, this can be done by moving the lines of the upper and lower cuts as follows. From point C2 up and down we set aside ¼ of the width of the narrow sleeve. For example, if the finished width of a tapered sleeve is 24 cm, then we set aside 6 cm from point C2 (24: 4 = 6 cm). Let us denote the resulting points by the letters U and U1, and connect point U with the shoulder point P11, and point U1 with point 2.

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In the same way we build a narrowed sleeve on the shelf.

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Now that's ALL! The construction is complete.

The resulting drawing can be used as the basis of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve for further modeling. Using methods known to you, you can use it to create a wide variety of styles of blouses, dresses, dressing gowns, etc. For example, using various options for moving the chest dart, etc.

Figure 25 shows two more options for different positions of the lower section of the sleeve. Only the back part is shown here; on the shelf, the lower cut is constructed in a similar way. If necessary, you can easily handle this yourself.

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This is just an example. Based on your goals and desires. Don't be afraid to experiment, but remember, the risk should always be worth it. Check the pattern and only after making sure that this is what you were aiming for, start cutting.

Cutting details

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There are other ways and techniques for constructing a long, one-piece sleeve. We will talk about them in our next articles.

You will succeed!

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When making some clothes, small pieces of fabric are deliberately sewn into them in a diamond, triangular or rectangular shape. Each such insert is called a “gusset”. What is it? Why do you need a gusset, and how to sew it into a product? This is described in detail in our article.

Gusset - what is it?

A gusset is often compared to a patch. But these are completely different concepts. A patch is a piece of fabric that is sewn onto clothing to hide a hole that has formed in it. It is precisely the purpose that the gusset differs from it. What is it?

A gusset is a piece of fabric that is sewn into areas where there is a risk of increased tension in the material to provide freedom of movement. If you do not insert a gusset into it during manufacturing, then it is likely that you will soon have to sew a patch in this place.

The gusset is sewn into those places where a large load falls when moving. For example, this is the junction of a side seam and a sleeve (armhole) or a crotch seam in trousers. To prevent the seam from tearing when walking, a small piece of fabric is inserted into it. The gusset is also used in tights, baby rompers, etc. That is, in those places where the seam can tear when walking. The piece of fabric should be small in triangular, rectangular or diamond shape.

In modern fashion, the gusset performs not only a practical, but also a decorative function.

Gusset in pantyhose

The gusset is widely used in the manufacture of underwear and tights. The presence of this small piece of fabric indicates not only practicality, but also the high quality of the product. The gusset in tights is sewn into the crotch to ensure product strength, greater width, and freedom of movement. In synthetic tights, a cotton gusset makes the product more hygienic because it prevents odor.

The gusset in tights also has an antibacterial function and helps preserve women's health. A similar function is performed by a piece of fabric inserted into women's underwear made from synthetic materials.

Diamond gusset: pattern

It is for the gusset that you do not need to create a separate pattern. The place where it is necessary to place a piece of fabric of a certain shape is simply marked on the drawing. What is a gusset in this case? part of the pattern, and it is indicated on paper in a certain way. This piece of fabric is cut out separately from the main parts of the product, and it is necessary to take into account seam allowances on each side.

The sleeve gusset may consist of one or two parts. How are they different from each other?

The one-piece gusset is a diamond-shaped piece of fabric. This piece of fabric is inserted into the incision specially left after stitching the side and axillary seams.

A two-piece gusset consists of two pieces of fabric, one of which is sewn to the front and the other to the back of the product. In this case, the side and armpit seams are sewn down after the gusset is sewn. It will be much easier to insert such a piece of fabric into the product.

A sleeve with a gusset consisting of one or two parts looks almost invisible, but at the same time it is much more comfortable to wear such clothes. We'll look at how to sew a piece of fabric into a sleeve below.

How to sew a gusset into a sleeve

The gusset is sewn into the sleeve of the product in the following sequence:

1. Sew side and underarm seams, leaving a small slit open for the gusset.
2. Place the gusset on the left slit from the inside out. Align the ends of the cut with its corners, connect all the seams according to the allowance.
3. You need to attach the seams alternately from one corner to another, each time turning the product towards you.
4. Only after all the seams have been stitched can the basting be removed. Check that all seams on the front side are even, after which they can be removed. Iron the gusset on the front side of the product, then overcast the seams on the back.

In a similar way, you can insert a piece of fabric into men's briefs with a gusset, sewing it to the two halves of the fabric along the seam line.