§ 1. Fastening the lining parts

Sewing lining for boots consists of the following operations: stitching the rear edges of the lining, stitching the rear inner belt, sub-blocks, and trim.

Stitching the back edges of the lining. The purpose of the operation is to fasten the hem of the two halves of the textile lining with a single-row stitch (Fig. 63). The operation is performed on a 4th class machine with a needle No. 14, class 16x1 with round sharpening;

white thread No. 3, both the top on the spool and the bottom on the bobbin.

When stitching the rear edges of the lining, the following requirements must be met: 1) the stitching should be at a distance of 4-5 mm from the fastened edges of the lining throughout; 2) there should be 4-5 stitches per 1 cm of stitching; 3) the lining along the stitch line should not be gathered into folds or pulled together with thread; 4) the stamp numbers of each half-pair must be facing inward; 5) the stitching should be well tightened. If these requirements are not met, the lining may not fit the upper or wrinkles may form in the shoe.

Stitching the rear inner belt ( rice. 64). The operation is performed on a 4th class machine with a needle No. 13 - 14, class 16x2 with oblique sharpening; thread should be for the spool - No. 40 to match the color of the belt, for the bobbin - No. 30.

The following requirements are imposed on the quality of the operation: 1) the stitch seam of the lining must be straightened on both sides; 2) the lining under the back belt should not have wrinkles or wrinkles; the top edge of the belt should not be 2-3 mm below the edge of the lining; 3) the line should be at a distance of 1 - 1.2 mm from the adjacent side edge of the belt; 4) the stitching should have a frequency of 5 stitches per 1 cm; the stitches should be well tightened; 5) the belts entering the stitching must have the same thickness and a lowered upper edge. Failure to comply with these requirements may result in a number of defects (belt distortions, seam folds, etc.), which will further complicate the assembly of workpieces.

Stitching of subblocks. The operation is performed in the same way as stitching belts (Fig. 64), on a 4th class machine with needles No. 13-14, class 16x2; thread for the bobbin should be white No. 30, for the spool - the color of the sub-blocks No. 40.

Requirements for the quality of the operation: 1) in relation to the stitching - general; 2) the front rounded edge of the subblock should be 3-4 lower than the front edge of the lining mm; 3) stitch distance from the edge of the subblocks 1 mm; 4) the lining should not be wrinkled by the subblock.

In case of incorrect stitching, the area of ​​the lining may increase or decrease; in both cases the lining will not fit under the upper of the shoe.

Stitching the trim(Figure 64). The trim is attached with a uniform stitch on a 4th class machine using needles No. 13-14 class 16x4 with oblique sharpening; The threads for the bobbin should be white No. 30, and for the spool the color of the shroud should be No. 40.

The quality of the operation must satisfy the following requirements: the filler must be applied to the canvas at a distance of 8 mm from the top edge; the stitch distance from the edge of the trim should be equal to 1 mm; the number of stitches should be 5 by 1 cm.

Sewing lining for low shoes and shoes consists of the following operations: stitching the leather lining to the textile one and stitching the back seam of the leather lining.

(Fig. 65). The operation is performed on the same machine, with the same needles and threads as the operations described above. The leather lining is placed face up on the textile lining so that its edge extends 4-5 mm and the brand was visible. The stitch should be 1 - 1.5 from the edge of the leather part of the lining mm, and from the edge of the textile - by 3 -4 mm. There should be no wrinkles on the lining parts along the stitch line.

Stitching the back seam of the leather lining. The purpose of the operation is to connect the two halves of the lining with a stitch (which is most often performed with a tight stitch seam). The parts are placed one on top of the other with their front sides; the seam is formed in the form of a scar, subsequently facing the melon sides of the ankle boots. After stitching, the seam is smoothed. The operation is performed on a 5th class machine with a needle No. 14, class 16x2; White threads are used for both the bobbin and the spool.

The lining along the stitch line should not be gathered into folds and pulled back with thread. The stitch frequency is 6-7 stitches per 1 cm. The stitching should be especially well tightened, the punctures should be tightly filled with thread. The stitching distance from the fastened edges of the lining should be 1 - 1.5 mm throughout. The following are not allowed: unevenness in distance from the edge of the stitching, mismatched edges of parts, the presence of places along the edge that are not covered by the stitching, folds and wrinkles on the lining. All of these disadvantages reduce the strength of the seam; finished shoes with such defects bother the foot.

The lining of women's shoes can have parts of various shapes. In cases where shoes have over-lifting straps, the lining is glued to the latter during assembly.

The lining for suede shoes is usually made entirely of leather. whole or of two pieces. The lining for carved shoes is also made of leather and consists of two or three parts. The leather parts of the lining are fastened on a 5th class machine with needles No. 13-14, class 16x2, and white threads No. 30.

§ 2. Fastening the top parts

The upper parts - vamps, socks, backs, boots - are glued together. then they are fastened together with a stitch on a 5th class machine. Preliminary gluing of parts facilitates subsequent operations; they are performed more accurately and accurately.

The sequence of operations depends on the type and style of workpieces. Let's look at the most common operations that can be considered typical.

A wide variety of workpiece styles, different nature and number of operations do not make it possible to indicate a specific sequence. Let's look at operations by group. All operations of fastening parts of the top with stitching must be carried out in accordance with the general technical requirements and the requirements for stitching quality given above.

Sewing socks to vamp. The operation is necessary in workpieces with a cut-off toe. The toe line, and therefore the stitching, can be straight or curly (Fig. 66). The operation is performed as follows. The sock, glued to the vamp and glued with the interlining, is fastened with a two-row, three-row or four-row seam, the lines run along both sides of the perforation. The first line should be 0.75 mm from the edge of the toe, the distance between adjacent lines located on both sides of the perforation, depending on the nature of the latter, should be 3-5 mm. The sock should be glued to the vamp and stitched evenly, without displacement, so that its edge overlaps by 7-8 mm.

The edge of the vamp should be down and aligned with the edge of the sock. The interlining should be caught by the stitching and should not have wrinkles. On socks, you must be especially careful to avoid poor thread tightening, breaks, skipped stitches and uneven stitching.

Fastening the boots with the backs. This operation is performed when sewing blanks with patch hems. Its purpose is to fasten the backs to the boots with two or lines (Fig. 67). In manual production, it is most often performed on a 5th class machine. The numbers of needles and threads are indicated in the table above. 4.

When fastening the boots with the backs, the following technical requirements must be met: 1) the number of lines must be less than two; 2) the first line should be 0.75 - 1 from the edge of the back mm; distance between lines with non-perforated hem 1.5 - 2 mm, with perforated 4 - 5 mm; 3) the backs are glued to the boots for at least 7 - 8 mm; the edges of the boots, on which the backs are adjusted, must be lowered; 4) the quality of the stitching must meet the requirements given above.

This is an extremely responsible operation. Its importance for the quality of shoes is very great. The slightest displacement of the vamp during stitching results in a crooked stitch, an incorrect, crooked workpiece. Attempting to correct an incorrect vamp stitching with secondary stitching usually results in material damage (a hole).

Vamps can have different shapes and configurations (Figure 68). Before stitching, they are glued to the boots and heels, overlapping the edges of these parts by 7-8 mm.

High-quality performance of the operation is achieved provided that: 1) the center of the vamp coincides with the line of connection of the thighs; 2) the stitching is strictly parallel to the edge and well tightened; has no gaps or breaks; punctures made with a needle are filled with thread; 3) the distance of the stitches from the edge is the same as on the socks and backs; 4) the interlining is captured by the stitching.

Fastening the boots and butts with a back seam. If the workpiece has a back outer belt, stitching is often done with a backstitch. If the workpiece is made without a back outer belt, then a tight tack stitch is used, which is sewn on both sides with a stitch on the braid. This seam is used most often.

The operation is performed on a 5th class machine, with a needle No. 13-14; threads are taken No. 30. The parts are placed one on top of the other with their right sides, fed under the roller press (roller foot) of the machine and stitched at a distance of 1 - 1.5 mm from the edge of the parts, stitch frequency - 5 stitches per 1 cm.

After stitching, the back seam is smoothed on special wooden forms (the outlines of which correspond to the heel part of the last) using ironing sticks.

When the operation is performed well, the back seam is smooth and undamaged, the parts are firmly fastened with stitching.

Adjusting the rear outer belt. The seam that holds the heels and thighs of the rear edge together is not strong enough to withstand the stress it experiences when processing parts and external influences while wearing shoes. It is reinforced with a rear outer belt.

Straight and curved belts are used.

In men's boots with a circular vamp, the outer strap is shaped like a spatula, which connects the back edges of the vamps and ankle boots.

The rear outer belt is attached with two lines on each side; the distance of the first line from the edge is 0.75mm, the second from the first is 1mm (Fig. 69).

The belt must be placed on the seam so that it is located 1.5 mm above the upper edge of the ankle boots (for folding), and the middle longitudinal line of the belt coincides with the seam of the ankle boots and butts.

The belts in a pair must be the same width. The requirements for the line are the same as in previous operations.

Gluing the lining to the top. The prepared lining and the fastened parts of the top are preliminarily connected to each other with rubber glue to facilitate the subsequent operation of fastening them with stitching (piping stitching). The curved edges of the lining and the edges of the top of the workpiece are lubricated with rubber glue. The top of the workpiece is placed on the table with the melon side up, placed on the curved edge of the edging and a leather lining is glued to it. The edge of the lining should be lower than the top edge of the workpiece, but no more than 1 mm; it must be located evenly along the entire edge so that, together with the latter, it is captured by the stitch. Next, the lining is put on a special block with the back seam facing you. Then turn the block, align the lining and place the upper part of the workpiece on it. The top with lining, put on the block, is hammered along the edge with a hammer.

(Fig. 70). The purpose of the operation is to seam the lining into one piece with the stitched parts of the top after gluing them together. The workpiece is placed on the machine platform with the lining down. In boots and low shoes, the stitching begins from the front part of the left thigh, is carried out along the sub-block part, then along the upper part of the thigh, then, having passed the outer belt, moves to the right thigh, then the stitch is carried out along the sub-block part of the right thigh and ends at the bottom of the thigh. Shoes with cross straps have piping stitching running along the edges of the straps.

Stitch distance from edge - 0.75 mm; stitch frequency 7 - 8 stitches per 1cm; all other requirements for the line are the same as for the operations described above.

Lacing of blanks. Lacing the workpiece is necessary to temporarily connect the halves of the ankle boots, in order to later be able to evenly tighten the workpiece onto the last. An unlaced workpiece cannot be tightened.

Lacing is done with twine, which is threaded into a needle. The twine is cut into pieces, the length of which depends on the size of the workpiece.

§ 3. Features of fastening parts of the upper workpiece for a boot

The operations of fastening the parts of the upper workpiece for a boot have some peculiarities both in terms of the sequence and the nature of the execution.

The sequence of operations is as follows: gluing the backs to the boots, fastening the backs to the boots, fastening the back seam, stitching the rear outer belt, gluing the hooks, inserting the hooks, gluing the lining along the top edge, stitching the edging, inserting the blocks, gluing the vamps, stitching the vamps, fastening the lining and tongue attachment. Below is a description of the typical operations for sewing boot blanks.

Gluing the hooks. The shoe hook looks like a cylinder with a height of 5 mm; the approximate thickness of the leather of ankle boots made of chrome outgrowth 1 mm, from chrome flange - about 0.8 mm, from Chevro - about 0.6 mm. Such a large difference between the thickness of the leather from which the ankle boots are cut and the height of the hook cylinder does not allow, when inserting the hooks into the workpiece, to press them tightly to the ankle boots. Therefore, in the places where the hook is inserted, it is necessary to make a thickening, for which purpose the underhooks are glued, cut out from a flap of leather.

The hook holder is glued at a distance of 7-8 mm from the upper edge of the ankle and 4 mm from the front line.

The hooks are inserted until the ankle boots are connected to the lining; the riveted part of the hooks is then covered with a lining, which protects the foot from damage.

Inserting hooks. According to the models, holes are cut in the ankle boots using special punches and hooks are inserted into them using special devices (Fig. 71). Hooks are placed in the lower matrix of the device with the cylinder facing up. They are covered with ankle boots with holes punched in them. Then, by turning the handle, the upper matrix is ​​lowered, which enters the hook cylinder, pushes its walls apart, turns the upper end of the cylinder over the edges of the punched holes and presses it tightly against the ankle boots.

Each boot of sizes 36-38 should have six hooks inserted, and sizes 39-47 - eight hooks. The distance from the centers of the hooks to the top edge of the workpiece is 14 - 15 mm, from the center of the hook to the edge of the front line of the thigh - 10 - 12 mm. Hooks must be inserted carefully and neatly, their edges must be riveted tightly. The location of the hooks in both halves of the boots should be symmetrical.

Inserting blocks. The purpose of the operation is to cut holes in the thighs and strengthen them with blocks. The blocks are inserted using the same device as the hooks.

The number of blocks in each pair of boots of a given batch must be the same and comply with the standards given in table. 5.

Table 5

Number of blocks in a pair of shoes

Type of shoes

Men's No.

Women's No.

Boy's room No.

Maiden number

Children's and small children's rooms No.

Low shoes

The blocks must be located at the same level and at the same distances (symmetrically) one relative to the other, both in a half-pair and in a pair of blanks. They should be pressed tightly to the material of the parts and riveted well. The distance from the edge of the blocks to the edge of the front line of the ankle boots should be equal to 7 mm. The distance between the blocks should be the same both in one half and in a half-pair and in a batch. The distance from the bottom block to the tattoo of the lower edge of the ankle boots should be 7-9 mm.

§ 4. Features of sewing blanks for shoes

Edging with braid on the upper edge of the blank for a pump. When wearing an open pump, the top edge is the most stretched. Therefore, the upper edge of a boat made of patent leather is reinforced with silk braid. Having sewn the silk edge braid of diagonal weave, the edging is turned inside out. The diagonal weave of the braid protects it from the formation of folds and wrinkles in the places of curves during hemming; Such braid lays evenly when turning and trimming the edge. Band width 16 - 17 mm.

The braid is attached with a single-row stitch on a 4th class machine using a No. 11 needle, with a round single-row stitch; threads for the bobbin are taken to match the color of the material, No. 30; for the reel - to match the color of the braid, No. 40.

Sewing buttonholes. Shoes with a heel strap are made with buttons, buckles or snaps that are used to fasten the strap that tightens the foot when putting on the shoe.

Buttonhole stitching is used for shoes with buttons and consists of creating a cut (hole) for a loop in the belt, sewing a seam around the cut hole, and securing the overcast seam. The hole for the fastener is reinforced with stitching. There are several designs of special machines for sewing buttonholes (double-thread chain stitch).

Overcasting is often replaced by buttonhole stitching on a class 5 machine. The stitching is done at a distance of 1 mm from the edge. top scores are obtained by overcasting or stitching with silk threads.

Sewing on buttons. Buttons are sewn onto shoes to fasten the over-lift belt. There are special machines for sewing on buttons, but very often they are sewn on by hand using special needles and threads No. 10 and 20.

Buttons must be sewn exactly in the middle of the small strap, departing from the top edge by 1.2 - 1.5 cm; the threads should be well tightened and fit snugly to the eye of the button.

The material of the parts must not be damaged.

Attaching buckles. Buckles are used to fasten shoes on the foot, as well as for decoration. The buckle for fastening has a rod to hold the cross-lifting belt and is attached to the belt loop, which in turn is stitched between the ankle boots or cuts into the ankle boots and is sewn in two or three lines.

Buckles for decoration are most often attached to the top by hand. The buckle must be very firmly attached and withstand all the stress that occurs when fastening the shoe on the foot, and all the forces that arise when walking. It must be stitched correctly, without distortion.

The pin of the buckle should be tightly pressed together with the belt loop. The holes should be punched from the center line of the strap and match the instep of the foot.

Attaching bows. Bows can be overhead and integral with the details. The bow is placed on the vamp and attached to it with thread, most often when the shoes are already sewn.

Set-in bows are attached to a 5th class car. The operation can be performed at various stages of the technological process, depending on the design of the workpiece. The main quality requirements are the symmetrical arrangement of the bow on the workpiece and its strong attachment; the threads attaching the overhead bows should not be visible; the bow must be sewn at a certain height.

§ 5. Sewing blanks for boots

The blanks for the cutting chrome boot are sewn using the welt method as follows.

Stitching the head into the boot. The stitching of the head into the boot is performed with a single-row seam on a 5th class machine using a needle No. 11, class 16x2, with an oblique sharpening; thread for the spool is taken No. 40, for the bobbin - No. 30.

The insertion of the head into the boot begins from the middle of the neck of the head (the middle is determined by the bend of both parts). The stitch runs along the edges of the parts folded face to face - first from the middle of the neck of the head to the end of the left wing of the back, then from the middle of the neck to the end of the right wing of the back (Fig. 72).

When performing this operation, it is very important to place the head correctly; at the slightest deviation from the correct position the head turns out to be crooked.

The edges of the head and shaft must match exactly. The middle of the neck of the head should also coincide with the middle of the cutout in the boot. The corners of the wings of the back and head should be smooth, without rounding. The stitching distance from the edge of the head and shaft should be 1 - 1.25 mm. The stitch frequency is 6 per 1 cm of stitching.

Attaching the ears to the foot(Fig. 73). To make it easier to put boots on your feet, ears made from a special braid are attached to the foot. The seams that attach the eyelet periodically experience a load so great that it can cause both the eyelet to tear off and the seam to break through the futor material. Therefore, the ears should be attached with especially strong threads using a double-row seam, not only to the gluing, but also to the boot after fastening these parts together.

Usually the ears are pre-glued to the foot, which makes stitching easier. The eyelet is inserted into a slot in the foot, the length of which is 35-40 mm, distance from the top edge - 30 - 35 mm. The length of the eyelet pieces inserted into the slot in blanks made of chrome leather is 25 mm(short end) and 40 mm(long end). In blanks made of light leather, chevro and flange, the ears are glued along the entire length of the foot so that their ends coincide with the lower end of the foot, flush with the lower end of the back.

When tightening such a workpiece, the ends of the ears are bent together with it onto the block and attached.

The ears should be attached to the foot with a U-shaped seam. The upper horizontal part should be at a distance of 1 - 1.5 mm from the slot in the foot. After attaching the ears, the ends of the threads should be pulled to the mesh side, tightly tied with a double knot and cut at a distance of 5 - 6 mm from the node.

Attaching the boot to the foot. The tops are fastened to the foot as follows: 1) sew the foot with a single-row stitch to the top along the top edge, folding them face to face; 2) the upper edge of the boot and foot is coated along the entire length with rubber glue; 3) turn the boot inside out and glue it with the foot along the upper edge; 4) trim the top edge with a single-row stitch.

The qualitative requirements for these operations are as follows: the footer must be stitched at a distance of 3 mm from the edge of the boot; the upper edge should be carefully trimmed after turning the boot inside out; when stitching the edging, the seam should be located at 3-4 mm from the upper edge of the boot and 4-4.5 mm from the edge of the footer.

Attaching the ears to the boot. Attaching the ears to the boot consists of attaching them with a triangle-shaped stitch to the boot of the futor. This is done to evenly distribute the tension when putting the boot on your foot. Stitching is done on a 5th class machine, with a needle No. 13, thread No. 40 or 30.

Two parallel lines should run along the front side of the boot between the tattoos, which are made for orientation when sewing the line. Distance between lines 1.5 mm. The line should be located at 2 mm below the slot in the foot; the edges of the ears should be captured by the top lines for at least 3-4 mm. The stitching should be even and well tightened. The stitching frequency is 5-6 stitches per 1 cm.

Gluing the subcharge to the footer. The sub-piece is glued to the footer to facilitate stitching. The operation is performed as follows. The sub-order is bent so that the edges along the gluing line exactly coincide, then the sub-order is pressed against the table with the left hand, and the neck is bent with the right hand.

The futor is placed with the side up, the cutout in front of you, the edge of the cutout is smeared with glue, the futor is bent and a sub-cut is placed in it. It is necessary to ensure that the edges of the futor are everywhere at the same distance from the edge of the sub-work; first glue the right side, then, turning the foot, the left side of the sub-charge.

Topstitching the head seam. The operation is intended to further strengthen the seam connecting the head (front) to the boot, since this seam is not strong enough to withstand the stress that it experiences during processing and, especially, when wearing the boot.

The seam is stitched using two parallel lines, which run at equal distances from the line obtained by stitching the head into the boot (Fig. 72). One of the parallel lines runs along the boot, the other along the head. With a through foot, the stitching seam catches the subcut.

The last operations of sewing the workpiece are sewing in the seam and the hard back. Both operations are performed manually during the shoemaking process. These are described below (see Chapter 4 of Part 4).

1. Welt

The load-bearing part of the shoe, with the help of which the upper of the shoe is attached to the sole.

2. Hard toe cap

An intermediate part of the upper of a shoe in the toe part, between the upper and the lining.

Maintains the shape of the toe part and also serves to protect the feet from external mechanical influences.

3. Vamp

The outer part of a shoe upper that covers the top surface of the foot. Can be reinforced with textile details: interlining and sidewall, which prevent stretching of the top and deformation of the sides. During the use of shoes, the vamp (front) is subject to severe deformation due to numerous repeated bends, and that is why it is a critical part of the shoe upper.

4. Boots

The outer parts of a shoe upper that cover the back of the foot. The boots have laces or belts with buckles. During the use of shoes, ankle boots are subjected to less intense mechanical stress than the vamp.

5. Lining

The inner part of the upper of the shoe is made of vegetable tanned leather - it is in direct contact with the foot and should be especially soft, capable of allowing air to pass through.

The lining wears out most intensively in the toe and heel areas.

6. Hard back

The inner heel is a reinforcing element at the back connection of both parts of the shoe upper. It is located between the soft layer of the back (lining) and the back (ZNR).

Provides dimensional stability of the heel part, and also serves to protect the feet from external mechanical influences and helps fix the foot in the shoe. Made from natural saddle leather, thermoplastics, leather cardboard, granitoli, etc.

7. Sole

The part of the bottom of the shoe that is in direct contact with the ground. Dress shoes have a thickness of about 5 mm, while durable shoes have a correspondingly greater thickness. It protects the foot from contact with the ground, softens mechanical impacts when walking, running, jumping, protects shoes from wear, penetration of water and dirt, as well as from exposure to aggressive environments. Along with the external details of the upper, the design of the sole also plays a role in shaping the appearance of the shoe. The tread pattern (running layer of the sole) determines the antifriction (slip resistance) properties of the shoe. When wearing shoes, the sole is exposed to intense influences - abrasion on the ground, repeated deformation during compression and bending, wetting and drying, temperature changes. The quality of the sole largely determines how long a shoe will be worn.

8. Insole

A shoe part that matches the shape of the main insole. Serves to improve the aesthetic, comfortable and hygienic properties of shoes. It is a layer of especially soft skin that comes into contact with bottom surface feet.

9. Main - set-in insole

The part of the bottom of the shoe located under the entire surface of the foot to which the top and bottom of the shoe are attached. When using shoes, the insole is subject to repeated bending and compression, and in the absence of an insole, it is exposed to sweat and abrasion from the foot. The materials used to make the insoles must be resistant to these influences, absorb sweat well, and firmly hold nails and threads. In shoes, leather insoles are used (single and glued from two layers), combined (from a layer of leather and artificial insole material or special cardboard).

10. Forgiveness

Serves to fill cavities formed during the process of sewing the welt. When walking, it makes the sole springy and stable.

11. Gelenok

A part of a shoe that is attached between the main insole and the sole. It is a spring made of wood or steel (10x1.5 cm). Placed in the cavity formed by the welt and insole, from the middle of the heel to the beginning of the instep. Creates a stable support and prevents heel bending.

12. Heel

A critical part of the bottom of a shoe, designed to raise the heel of the foot to a certain height.

13. Stroke

A strip of leather nailed to the insole is a continuation of the welt and forms the base for the sole and heel. For shoes with a sewn welt, the edge is attached with wooden pins; in other cases, it is nailed down.

14. Sock

The outer part of a shoe upper that covers the back of the toes. In the process of wearing shoes, the toe is subject to the greatest mechanical and physical-mechanical influences, as a result of which scratches, dirt, etc. remain on it.

15. Boot

The outer part of the upper of a shoe that covers the lower leg, sometimes part of it or the thigh.

16. Tongue

The outer part of the top of boots or low shoes, located under the front part of the ankle boots, to protect the foot from damage by blocks and pressure from laces.

What are shoes made of?

One of the main characteristics of any shoe is the material from which it is made. It is the material of the shoes that ensures both its aesthetic appearance and service life.

In addition, each material requires special care, and using conventional cleaning methods without considering the material can cause irreparable damage to the shoes.

If you ask to name the most common materials for shoes, most will remember only 5-6 names. In fact, there are much more of these materials, although it should be noted that not all materials are now used to make everyday shoes, and some of them are used to produce special shoes with increased strength and waterproofing characteristics.

Natural materials for shoes are fabric, suede and genuine leather: nubuck, crack, tanned leather and others. Material such as leather was known back in ancient times, when it was also used for making shoes and clothing. Due to its characteristics, leather is considered an elite material for shoes, and genuine leather shoes have always been the most expensive. To produce more mass-produced and affordable shoes, artificial materials are used, including faux leather.

The most practical is chrome-tanned leather, which does not absorb moisture and does not deform. Shoes made of crack and nubuck are also not susceptible to cold and moisture, but the surface of these materials takes on an unaesthetic gloss over a fairly short period of time. Shoes made of fabric are cheap, very light and comfortable, but their main disadvantage is their fragility, and after washing or cleaning such shoes often lose their brightness of color.

One of the most common materials for modern shoes is suede - soft leather that has a velvety appearance and is a durable fabric with thick short pile on the front side. In terms of its characteristics, suede is similar to corduroy, but, unlike this material, it is denser and heavier. They also produce artificial suede with a fleecy surface, which is a leather substitute.

For special shoes (for example, military ones), a fabric similar to “avizent” is used, and the “Gortex” membrane provides the boots with absolute waterproofness. For shoes with intensive use, Cordura is also used - a durable and at the same time lightweight material that is resistant to damage.

A

Amidiskin is a soft artificial leather, the base of which is non-woven, fabric or knitted (must have a polyamide coating).

Aniline leather is a type of leather dyed with organic dyes using minimal processing.

Application:

1. decorative finishing, which was created by gluing, sewing, overlaying multi-colored pieces of material;
2. these are patterns obtained in this way.

Finishing is the process of applying a thin layer of a special liquid (finishing agent) during final finishing, which improves appearance and makes it easier to care for.

Shoe article is a brief conditional description that contains information about the technologies, designs that were used in the manufacture of the material and the purpose of the shoes. In Russian GOST, the first letter of the article indicates the purpose and method of production, the second and third - about the type of leather. Subsequent numbers: the first indicates the type of shoe; the second, third and fourth are about its variety, and the fifth and sixth are about fastening methods. The letter that comes after the numbers indicates the color of the upper materials. Today, many Russian enterprises do not follow GOST when labeling their products. In most countries of the world there are no strict rules for article coding, since each company has its own.

The assortment of Shoes is the composition and ratio of various types of shoes that were produced by the enterprise or that are available in the store.

B

1. Wading or fishing boots or over the knee boots.
2. Special protective soft shoes, which are applicable in the medical and chemical industries.
3. This is also the name given to high Canadian moccasin boots; they are mainly worn by lumberjacks.

Fringe is a series of loosely hanging threads or strips of leather. They are often pre-attached to the braid. A finishing element for clothing and shoes.

Bakhtarma is the lower surface of tanned leather or animal skin.

Trim is a strap that is used to make the top of open shoes.

Boots are the outer parts of the upper of the shoe that cover the back surface of the foot in boots/low shoes. Most often they contain elements for fastening shoes on the foot.

Ankle boots are women's dress boots of a shortened length.

Boots are shoes with an upper that covers the entire back surface of the foot.

Over the knee boots are high boots with bells.

Boots are high rubber or warm shoes that are worn over other shoes.

Burkas are felt or felt boots with leather toes and backs.

IN

Valenki are one-piece winter boots made of felt.

Veluton is a lining fabric that resembles artificial velor in appearance.

Velor is chrome-tanned leather with the front surface processed using the grinding method or bakhtarma. It is used to select a tanned semi-finished product that has deep facial defects that are unsuitable for the production of leather with a natural facial surface. Used for the manufacture of uppers for shoes, clothing and leather goods.

Types of Shoes - classification of shoes according to design and appearance. There are five main groups: sandals, shoes, low shoes, shoes and boots.

Vinyl leather - soft artificial leather with a polyvinyl chloride coating. V.NT - designation of vinyl artificial leather on a non-woven base; V.-T - designation of vinyl artificial leather fabric base; V.-TR - designation of vinyl artificial leather on a knitted base.

Vinylurethane artificial leather-TR is an artificial glove leather on a knitted fabric with a two-layer coating: the bottom layer of which consists of porous PVC, and the front layer of polyurethane.

An insole is an internal part of the shoe upper, which corresponds in shape to the heel-heel part of the main insole and performs the functions of an insole.

An insole is an internal part of a shoe upper that matches the shape of the main insole. Designed to improve the aesthetic, comfortable and hygienic properties of shoes. Orthopedic insoles are often widely used.

Felt is a material consisting of a mixture of wool fibers.

Fit is the correspondence of shoes to the size of the foot in length and fullness, one of the indicators of comfort.

Vulcanization is a physical and chemical process of formation of a spatial structure in rubber under the influence of heat, radiation, and microwave currents.

G

Haberdashery vinyl artificial leather-T is an artificial leather on a fabric, knitted and fiber base with a polyvinyl chloride coating, as well as finishing for haberdashery products.

Haberdashery leather is artificial or natural leather of various tanning, which is used for haberdashery products.

Galoshes are low solid rubber shoes.

The shank is a metal shaped plate that is fixed between the main insole and the sole in order to create the necessary rigidity and elasticity in the shank part of the shoe.

Shoe nails are nails that are intended for the main and auxiliary operations of shoe production. Shoe nails are used for tightening, covering blanks of shoe uppers, attaching heels, heels, jambs, soles or their croculium, as well as for fastening shoe parts manually.

The hygienic properties of shoes are a set of properties that provide optimal conditions for wearing shoes for human health. These include hygroscopicity, moisture release, vapor permeability, heat conductor and others.

The shaft is the outer part of the top of the boot, which covers the lower leg, and sometimes part of it or the thigh.

The ankle joint is the joint that connects the bones of the lower leg and foot.

Hot vulcanization is a method of attaching a rubber bottom in which, thanks to elevated temperature molding, vulcanization and attachment of the sole and heel, which were made from a raw rubber mixture, takes place.

The pad ridge is a protrusion at the junction of the outer and inner surfaces of the pad.

The fingerprint is the properties of the leather that can be determined by touch.

A ground model is a drawing of an assembled model that is used for detailing.

Priming is the application of a thin layer of impregnating primer, which contains polymer materials, to the surface of the skin. It is carried out to reduce or eliminate odor and to improve the quality of the skin.

The insole lip is the protrusion of the main insole of a welted shoe, and the welt is attached to it.

Hussars are a type of shoe for children aged 1-1.5 years, foot length 120-14 mm.

D

Girls' shoes - a specific group of shoes for teenage girls with a foot length of 230-250mm. More often found in Soviet and Russian GOSTs.

The dermis is the middle layer of the skin, which is used in the production of leather. It consists of dense tissue, which is formed by a basic amorphous substance, various cellular elements and fibrous formations.

Shoe defect - lack, damage to shoes or their individual parts, materials. The term “defect” is also applicable to skin.

Children's shoes - a type group of shoes for children (from nursery to preschool age). This type of shoe has certain design features. The materials of children's shoes are subject to increased environmental and hygienic requirements.

Shoe deformation is a defect that is expressed in a change in the shape of the shoe relative to the last and specified parameters.

Toe cap (heel) deformation is a shoe defect that is expressed in an irreparable change in the shape of the toe cap.

Foot deformity is a congenital or acquired deviation in the size and shape of the foot. Acquired foot deformity may be the result of prolonged wear of ill-fitting or poorly designed shoes, or the use of excessively hard shoe materials.

The length of the last trace is the distance between the most distant points of the toe and heel parts of the last.

Foot length is the name given to the distance from the most prominent point of the heel to the most distant point of the first or second toe.

House shoes are shoes for wearing at home. In most cases, it contains a top made of fabric or genuine leather.

Tanning is the interaction of tanning substances with functional groups of intermolecular chains of collagen; in the process, stable additional cross-links are formed. Types of tanning - mineral, fat, formaldehyde, tannin, combined.

Tanning substances are mineral or organic substances that, when interacting with protein substances, can turn leather into leather.

AND

Women's shoes are a type of footwear that are specially designed for women. The industry produces women's shoes in large quantities from sizes 21.5 to 27.5.

Z

The heel is the outer part of the shoe upper that covers the heel of the foot.

The heel is an internal or intermediate part of the upper of the shoe, which is located in the heel. It is needed to maintain the shape of the shoe.

Skin wrinkles are a defect (defect) in the form of folds in areas of the skin that are formed during the process of pressing and polishing.

Suede is fat-tanned leather. Suitable for the manufacture of shoes, gloves, haberdashery, clothing, and also serves as a filtering and polishing material. High-quality shoe suede is obtained from the skins of deer calf, outgrowth and Russian short-tailed sheep, technical - from the sheepskins of Russian long-tailed sheep, rubbing - from the skins of adult deer, Russian sheepskin. Suede is characterized by high ductility and porosity, which makes it highly airtight. Suede is characterized by the fact that it allows water to pass through, but as it swells it becomes waterproof. A peculiarity in the manufacture of suede is the removal of the front layer and finishing on both the front side (deer suede) and the bakhtarmyana (sheepskin suede).

A fastener is a device that is designed to connect the diverging edges or ends of leather goods, clothing and footwear.

A zipper is a fastener that consists of two strips with links. It connects when the lock moves.

Tightening pliers are pliers with a hammer for manually tightening and tightening the workpiece on the block.

AND

Wear resistance is the resistance of materials and products to mechanical wear.

Impregnation is a type of leather filling, impregnation of the leather with high molecular weight compounds such as latex and resins. It increases the water resistance and wear resistance of plantar leathers, but at the same time to some extent reduces their hygienic properties.

Artificial leather is a general definition of a material that has the appearance and some consumer properties similar to natural leather. A narrower meaning is interpreted by I.K. as a material in which a polymer coating is applied over a textile base.

An artificial grain surface of leather is the surface of natural leather that has been enhanced by applying a layer of polymer film instead of the natural grain layer removed.

True skin density is the ratio of skin mass to the volume of its dense substance (excluding pores).

TO

The heel is the outer part of the bottom of the shoe; it is used to raise the heel of the foot to a certain height.

Heels are classified:

1. In terms of height, heels up to 29 mm are considered low, heels up to 29 mm are considered medium, heels from 30 to 49 mm are considered high, heels from 50 to 60 mm are considered high, and especially high ones are above 60 mm;
2. By type: posts, stilettos, French, waisted, English straight heels, Viennese, fitted, widened to the heel, wedge-shaped and others;
3. By material: wooden heel, plastic, rubber, leather (stacked), combined;
4. By design: whole, multi-layer, with and without liner, with pressed bushings and without bushings, with lightweight cavity and without cavities, whole with simulated heeling, with recesses, with a slot on the front surface for tucking when covering, with metal attachments;
5. According to the method of placement on the shoe: sole, platform, footprint in tightened shoes.

Natural rubber is a material obtained from the milky sap (latex) of rubber plants, mainly the Brazilian hyvea. It consists mainly of polyisoprene. The material is used as an additive in adhesive solutions based on synthetic rubbers, and is also used for the manufacture of rubber glue.

Synthetic rubber is a product of the co-polymerization of butadiene, isoprene or chloroprene and a number of other components. It is used for the production of rubber compounds and adhesives. It happens: styrene-butadiene rubber, nitrile-butadiene rubber, isoprene rubber, chloroprene rubber.

Cedar is an external component of leather goods; it strengthens the seam structure, stabilizes the shape of the product and has a decorative purpose.

Kirgolin is an artificial leather with a rubber coating on cotton fabric, it is intended for boot tops.

Kirza is a rubber-coated cotton fabric used to make boots.

A valve is an outer part of shoes and leather goods, used to close the product or pocket mainly along the entire length of the wall. The small flap should only partially cover the item or pocket. In shoes - the inside of the lining parts, installed under the zipper.

Leather fiber is a sole rubber with hardness, thickness, and plasticity similar to leather.

Leather goods are products made from natural, artificial leather or fabrics that are used to carry and store various items, protect hands from external influences, and secure items (suitcases, briefcases, wallets, bags).

Leather raw materials are animal hides that are used to produce leather.

Goat skin is the skin of a goat.

A shoe collection is a collection of models, systematized according to certain criteria: gender and age, seasonal, designer.

The last is a piece of technological equipment made of plastic, metal or wood; it is on it that the upper of the shoe acquires the specified shape and size.

The design of a shoe is the internal structure of the shoe, the presence of certain parts in it and their relative position. Structurally, shoes are divided according to the following criteria: type, internal dimensions and shape, material, presence, size and shape of parts, method of their connection, and historical type. Most often, the term Shoe Construction is used to designate varieties that differ in the location and method of connecting different parts in the shoe.

The jamb is a part of the bottom of the shoe, which is designed to protect against wear.

Kothurns are sandals with soles that reach up to 40 cm in height. They were worn by tragic actors of the ancient theater. The thick sole betrayed the actor's height and showed him to be tall and noticeable on stage.

Cross-country shoes are shoes such as low shoes or boots, designed for sports and outdoor activities.

Shoe hook is the name of accessories for lacing shoes.

L

Latex is an aqueous dispersion containing up to 40% natural or synthetic rubber. Raw materials for the production of rubber compounds, injection molded plastic compounds, shoe adhesives.

The facial layer of the skin is the name of the upper part of the skin, formed by a dense network of fibers of the upper part of the papillary layer.

Lobash is a section of skin that has been removed from the forehead of an animal.

The ankle is a protuberance at the joint of the lower leg bone, which is formed by the tibia and fibula. The outer ankle is located below the inner ankle.

M

Boys' shoes - a type of shoe for teenage boys, foot length 230-255mm. More often used in Soviet and Russian GOST standards.

Marking of the skin is a defect that is expressed in the fact that the skin can contaminate the surfaces in contact with it. The result is a violation of the painting regime or the use of a weak dye.

Haze is a defect that manifests itself in the form of areas with reduced shine on the front surface of soft artificial leather.

Shoe machines are devices that perform mechanical movements. These movements replace the complex manual operations of making shoes. They differ: sewing machines - used for sewing together parts of the workpiece, tightening machines - for tightening the top, tight; machines for finishing and auxiliary operations: machines for hot polishing of edges, bending, removing shoes from lasts and measuring machines - for taking measurements and testing.

A meander fastener is a zipper - a zipper, its plastic links are a spiral that is attached to the main tape.

The flesh is a layer of skin that is separated from the dermis during the leather dressing process.

Mereya is a natural pattern of the facial surface of the skin.

Shoe fastening methods are methods of attaching the bottom of a shoe to the top using auxiliary means: screws, nails, pins, threads, glue. The sole is attached to the upper of the shoe and the insole. Welt, platform covering. There are several groups of MKO: chemical; combined, mechanical.

Shoe design is the process of developing a new shoe model. The direction of fashion, the properties of materials, and the appearance of a person are taken into account.

The model is the latest in appearance, shape and material.

Dress shoes are shoes, the design of which focuses on modern fashion trends.

Moccasins are shoes whose upper blank with a sewn-in insert forms a structural unity with the insole along the entire footprint or in the toe-beam part.

Men's shoes are a type of footwear designed specifically for men. Massively produced by industry from sizes 24.5 to 30.5.

N

Printing is a method of finishing textile materials by hand or by machine; production is carried out with slabs or shafts, which have patterns cut out on the surface and filled with paint.

The heel is the outer part of the bottom of the shoe that is attached to the bottom surface of the heel.

Overlay:

1. The name of the outer part of the bottom of the shoe; it is fastened to the lower part of the sole with the entire surface or in the toe-beam part to increase the anti-slip, heat-protective properties and wear resistance of the product.
2. The upper fixed part of the lock, which is fixed on one of the interlocking sides of the leather goods.

An overlay welt is an external part of the bottom of a shoe, which increases the strength of the seam, which fastens the sole to the upper blank and improves the appearance of shoes using doppel and sandal fastening methods.

The outer arch of the foot is the curve of the foot that is formed by the calcaneus, talus, cuboid, fourth and fifth metatarsals. It performs a supporting function. Its height, on average, is 2 cm.

Heel attachment is the preliminary attachment of a heel to a shoe blank with or without a glued sole. The attachment is made to the attachment nails from the outside through holes drilled in the heels or in the heel part of the last, thanks to a screw being screwed into the heel.

National shoes are part of the national costume, shoes with designs characteristic of a particular nation. Shoes that were made using traditional materials and decorative elements.

Mismatch is a defect/defect in shoes. Distinction between half-pairs according to size, fullness, color or finish.

A non-glued sole is an area defect in the shoe. It is expressed in the presence of local peeling of the soles; manifests itself as a consequence of violations of the technological regime of lubrication, drying, activation, pressing.

The load-bearing welt is the outer part of the bottom of the shoe using welt, welt - stitching or “parco” fastening methods. A sole or backing is attached to it.

Thread is finely or tightly twisted natural, artificial or synthetic fibers.

The sock is the outer part of the upper of the shoe. It covers the dorsum of the toes.

Nubuck is a fleecy chrome-tanned leather with the front surface sanded with fine-grained abrasives. It is applicable in the manufacture of haberdashery and parts for shoe uppers.

ABOUT

The outline is an intermediate part of the shoe in the form of a strip made of natural or artificial leather. It is attached to the edge of the non-running surface of the sole; it ensures a tight fit to the footprint of the tightened shoe.

1. The process of covering the last with the upper blank and the process of attaching it to the insole in the toe part with nails or staples.
2. An outer part of a shoe that covers the side and front surfaces of the heel or the end of the platform.

Shoes are a product for protecting feet from external influences. Shoes have utilitarian and aesthetic functions. It is classified according to its purpose, material, method of joining parts, height and design of the top and bottom.

Edging is the sewing or gluing of tape to decorate and strengthen the edges of shoe upper parts that were previously processed for trimming.

Webbing of tightened shoes is the process of aligning the bumps and folds on the tightening edge of the workpiece, which occurs under pressure from heated plates or impact.

Opanki are shoes that are made using the side or glued fastening method. In these methods, a molded sole with a collar is attached to the upper with glue, thread, or braided cord.

The main insole is the internal part of the bottom of the shoe; the tightening edge of the upper blank and the parts of the bottom of the shoe are attached to it.

Shoe finishing:

1. Final processing of shoes in order to give them a marketable appearance.
2. Shoe decor (embroidery, applique).

Open shoes are shoes in which the toe, shank and heel parts are open.

P

Pantolets are a type of shoe with a band-like upper that covers the foot in the instep area.

Pantofles are shoes that have an open heel.

Re-stretching is the stretching of glove leathers in the required directions until the required residual elongation is obtained.

Booties are shoes with soft soles, suitable for children up to one year old.

Platform:

1. This is an intermediate part of the bottom of the shoe, its shape corresponds to the toe-beam part of the sole or its entire surface.
2. Thick molded sole.

Beach shoes are a type of shoe with a lightweight design for the beach, pool, bathhouse.

The outsole is the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, its shape and size corresponds to the toe-beam part of the sole, its purpose is to increase its wear resistance.

The underwear is an internal part of the upper of the shoe, its shape and size corresponds to the front of the feet.

The toe box is an intermediate part of the shoe upper, which is installed in the toe part to maintain its shape.

The toe box is an internal part of the upper of an open shoe, which matches the shape of the toe part of the main insole and performs the functions of an insole.

The outsole is the main outer part of the bottom of the shoe, which is located under the entire plantar surface of the foot.

A molded sole is a sole that has been made from rubber compounds or polymer compositions by casting or pressing. The molded sole is usually profiled, meaning it has different thicknesses in different areas.

The heel pad is an internal part of the shoe upper that matches the shape of the heel part of the main insole. Its function is an insole.

The instep is the name given to the convex surface of the back of the foot from the metatarsal bones to the ankle joint.

The fullness of the shoe - this is how the girth (in the inner shape of the shoe) in the bundles is conventionally designated; this is one of the main characteristics of the fit of the shoe.

Low shoes are a type of shoe with ankle boots that have devices for fastening on the foot. The top of the low shoes covers the entire back surface of the foot.

Ankle boots are a type of shoe with a shaft that reaches mid-calf. The model variety of ankle boots is called ankle boots.

Half-insole is the name of the internal or intermediate part of the bottom of the shoe; in shape and size it must correspond to the heel-heel part of the main insole.

Skin porosity is the name given to the ratio of the volume of pores in the skin to the total volume of the skin.

Pistons are a primitive design for one-piece shoes.

Cork is the outer layer of plant tissue, best seen in the cork oak tree. Gas-waterproof and very light material. It is used for soles, mainly in summer shoe models.

Industrial footwear is a type of footwear for workers in various specialties, it is made without the use of protective materials or parts.

Treaded soles are thick soles with a deeply grooved running surface to enhance traction.

A profile sole is a molded sole that has different thicknesses in different areas.

Stitching is the name of a part of the shoe upper in the form of a strip of material, which is located between the rear edges of the boot, its function is to increase the strength and water resistance of the seam.

A buckle is a fastener that is designed to connect elements of products with a belt or acts as an element of its decoration.

Pointe shoes are hard toe caps for ballet shoes. They allow you to dance on your toes with an extended instep.

Puklya is the name of a metal part in the form of a convex button. It is attached with curled teeth.1. In leather goods, they are installed on the bottom to protect the material from wear due to direct contact with a hard surface. In shoes, pukli have mainly aesthetic functions.

R

Size is a value that characterizes the length of the foot or insole of a shoe in the metric system. The following shoe sizes are used in the Russian Federation:

1. Length of the footprint in millimeters.
2. In the stichmass system, this is the length of the insole in stiches (1 stich is 23 cm).
3. In the inch system, the length of the insole is determined in units equal to 13 or 16 inches.

The welt is the outer part of the shoe. It serves to secure the insole to the sole and upper.

A welt insole is a basic insole that has a lip. The tightening edges of the top blank and the welt are attached to it.

The rational norm of shoe consumption is the amount of shoes that the average consumer needs in the existing climatic and social conditions per year.

Sustainable footwear is the type of shoe, the design, the materials used, the internal shape - all comply with medical, hygienic and environmental standards.

Shoe rubber is an elastic material that was formed as a result of the vulcanization of rubber. It is used for the manufacture of various parts of the top and bottom of shoes. According to the structure, there is a distinction between porous and non-porous rubber shoes. Relatively recently, thermoplastic rubber models were developed new shoes, used for the manufacture of shoe bottoms using the injection molding method.

Rubber shoes are a type of shoe whose bottom and upper parts are made primarily of rubber. Rubber shoes include rubber boots, galoshes, boots, as well as rubber-textile shoes with a textile top and a rubber bottom (for example, sneakers, half-sneakers).

WITH

Clogs are wooden shoes, considered the national footwear of the inhabitants of Holland and Belgium. France and many other countries. In everyday life, the term clog is used for summer shoes, similar to flip-flops with thick soles.

Sandals are summer low shoes or shoes with a perforated upper part and a hard back.

Sandals are men's and children's unlined shoes. The upper of this shoe partially covers the back of the foot.

Boots are a type of footwear with a high top that covers the foot, lower leg and sometimes the thigh.

A shoemaker is a craftsman who specializes in making and repairing shoes.

The footprint of a shoe is the part of the shoe blank that corresponds to the footprint of the last.

The vamp is the outer part of the shoe upper. It covers the dorsum of the metatarsus of the foot.

Specialty shoes are shoes that use special materials and parts to protect the feet from dangerous influences. For example, shoes for riggers with metal protective toes, or special steel shoes.

Sports shoes are shoes with a special design that are designed for exercise. various types sports. For example, athletics spikes, wrestling boots, football boots, ski boots.

The insole is the inner part of the shoe. It is located under the entire plantar surface of the foot.

The degree of coloring is the ratio of the thickness of the fish coated with the tanning agent to the entire thickness.

The foot is the lower part of a person’s leg, which performs a supporting and shock-absorbing function when walking or running. Consists of tarsus, metatarsus and fingers.

An instep support is a roller that supports the arch of the foot with flat feet. It often acts as part of an orthopedic insole.

Rawhide is untanned leather. It is produced from the skins of cattle: pigs, camels, elk by fattening and breaking down. Designed for the manufacture of saddlery and technical products.

T

1. A mark that is burned onto the skin or horns during the branding of animals.
2. A defect in the skin that is the result of a brand burned into it.

A wedge heel is a thicker sole on women's shoes.

Technical leather is vegetable, chrome and combined tanned leather, which is made from the hide of cattle. Its purpose is the production of drive belts, leather parts to cars and other technical equipment. products.

Embossing is the extrusion of a pattern on the front surface of the leather using a manual or mechanical press.

Shoes are a type of footwear whose upper blank does not completely cover the back of the foot. Shoe types:

1. boat (with an upper that has a seam in the heel or side of the workpiece);
2. boat with an over-lifting belt or T-shaped fasteners;
3. split (with a vamp and heel divided by a lifting belt);
4. summer open (with variations of open closed toes and heels)

U

High boots are insulated fur boots. Northern peoples make high fur boots by hand using reindeer fur. The high boots, which were manufactured industrially, received leather vamps and backs. The sole is made of felt, the cuff and insole are made of fur.

Ears are a part of the upper of the shoe in the form of a loop; it is connected to the tops or ankle boots with threads to increase the convenience of putting on the shoes.

F

The style is external shape a product that is created using the design, color and surface texture of materials.

Molding is a method of making shoes from polymer compositions, in which a certain portion of the molten material is fed under pressure into a mold. There the melt takes the given shape and fixes it. This helps to obtain various parts of the shoe: sole, heel, blank.

Fittings are auxiliary products that are used to fasten, lock, attach, strengthen and decorate products.

The foot is an internal part of the boot top. It matches the boot in shape and size.

X

Chrome tanning is tanning with aqueous solutions of basic trivalent chromium salts. They are classified according to the method: single-phase, two-phase, two-bath, “original”.

H

Chuvyaki are a type of house shoes with a heel whose height does not exceed 5 mm.

Sh

Shagreen is leather made from goat or sheep skins and has a characteristic grain pattern.

Shargolin is an artificial leather on fabric coated with a polyvinyl chloride composition, intended for boot tops.

Chevrette is a chrome-tanned leather intended for the uppers of shoes and haberdashery, made from sheepskin.

Chevro is a chrome-tanned leather intended for the upper of shoes, which was made from goat leather, with an area of ​​no more than 60 dm3 per cube.

A lace is a thin, most often knitted cord that is used to secure shoes to the foot.

The trim is an internal part of the shoe upper; it is used to strengthen the upper edge of the workpiece.

YU

Yuftin is artificial leather on fabric with a polyvinyl chloride coating for the tops of insulated boots.

Yuft is a leather for the upper of shoes of combined tanning, produced from the skins of cattle, horse fronts and pork skins, exclusively with high contents of fatliquoring substances.

I

The tongue is an external part of the top of boots or low shoes, which is located under the ankle boots in order to protect the foot from inconvenience that can be caused by blocks and laces.

Vladimir Parshin

Expert in the selection of safety footwear

Content:

From the point of view of an industrial product, shoes are a structure consisting of several elements connected to each other in a certain sequence. Using parts different forms By varying their number, you can create models of any style and purpose.

Depending on their location relative to the foot, all shoe elements are divided into two groups: upper parts and lower parts. The components of the upper part, connected to each other, form workpiece. In turn, the workpiece consists of external and internal parts.

Outer Upper Components

There are dozens of types of shoes, each of them uses a specific set of parts. Moreover, some elements are found in almost all shoes, while some are used only for certain types.

For example, bootleg- an element of the boot adjacent to the shin. Boots perform a similar function. ankle boots– details that fit the ankle and part of the lower leg. The height of the boots, like the tops, can vary depending on the shoe model. Thus, the tops of classic boots barely reach the ankle, while military shoes have tops up to the middle of the calf. The tops of boots can reach a maximum length, covering part of the thigh. Both ankle boots and boot tops are subject to the least wear and tear, so they are made of soft materials.

Another mandatory component of any closed shoes is vamp. And only in models made by traction is it absent. The vamp covers the top of the foot and forms the instep. Can be cut or circular. Due to its location in the most mobile part of the foot, the vamp is subject to wear more than other parts. Therefore, it is made from the most durable materials.

Also during operation it is highly exposed to mechanical and aggressive influences. sock, an element that covers the toes from the back. It is often reinforced with a rigid toe cap, which helps maintain the shape of the shoe and serves as additional protection for the feet.

Valve, or tongue - an element of a shoe located on the back of the foot. Usually the tongue is attached to the vamp and reaches a length equal to the height of the boots (sometimes a little more). It can also serve as a lining under a zipper or lacing, preventing dust and dirt from getting inside. Sometimes the valve is blind, as it is completely sewn to the vamp and ankle boots. The semi-blind valve is half sewn to the ankle boots.

To protect the heel of the foot, the shoe is equipped with backdrop, or butt. Most often it is made from the same material as the shoes themselves. For reinforcement, they are often sewn on from the inside additional elements protection.

To reliably strengthen the seam connecting the back of the ankle boots or boot, use rear outer belt. It is cut from the most durable areas of the skin. Helps improve the appearance of shoes, as well as increase their wear resistance. edging(or cuffs). It is sewn on the outside, above the ankle boots.

Supratrochlear- an element most often carved from leather. This is a thin strip 1.8 - 2.5 cm wide, stitched onto the edges of the ankle boots. The overblock serves as a reinforcing element for shoes made of soft materials (for example, fabric), in particular for fastening hooks, blocks and other accessories.
No less important components - accessories. Laces, fasteners, hooks are responsible for the reliable fixation of shoes on the foot and at the same time are decorative elements models. For a more reliable connection of the vamp with the ankle boots, it is installed holniten, it is a steel rivet.

Upper Internal Components

These details are not visible to others, but are of great importance. The durability and comfort of the shoes depends on how well they are made. The main internal part is lining. It is made from textiles, leather or fur. It is located over the entire inner surface of the workpiece. Lined shoes are more comfortable and protect your feet from chafing.

The toe and heel portions of the lining are subject to the greatest wear. Its key parts are equipped with – under contract(located in front, on the rise), futor(located in the area of ​​the boot) and a pocket, a detail similar in cut to a hard heel.

Same as rear outer belt, with inside attached rear inner belt. It also protects the back seam of boots or boots, only from the inside.

Shtafirka– the side part of the lining, which protects it from shedding, and the ankle boots from deformation. Subblocker– an element located on the rise. It gives strength to the connections of boots, blocks and hooks from the inside.

Intermediate workpiece elements

In addition to internal and external parts, intermediate elements are also used in the workpiece.
This hard plastic for backdrops. It is located between the soft lining layer and the back itself. This part provides additional strength to the rear part of the workpiece and protects the legs from mechanical damage. It is made of saddle cloth, leather cardboard, and polymer materials.

Intermediate parts also include toe cap. It is located between the sub-dress and the vamp. Used to maintain the shape of the toe and increase the wear resistance of shoes. It is made of thermoplastic, metal, granite, cord.

External shoe bottom components

The list of shoe bottom components is not that extensive, but each of them performs very important functions. Like the upper components, they are divided into internal and external. First of all, it refers to external sole. This is a key part of the shoe, the quality of the material and fastening of which determines how long the shoe will last. It protects your feet from dampness, dirt, cold and damage when coming into contact with any uneven surfaces. The sole softens and sometimes absorbs leg movements when walking, jumping, and running. Its surface can be perfectly flat or have treads that provide traction. Among other things, the sole, like all other components, plays an important role in shaping the aesthetic characteristics of the shoe.

Heel- an element with the help of which the heel part rises to a particular height. Heels are used in both women's and men's shoes. But if the variety of heels on men's shoes is small, then women's heels can have a height from 2 to 6 or more centimeters. Heels are made from various materials: wood, rubber, plastic, leather. By design they can be stacked or one-piece. An integral part of the heel - heel. It is attached to the running part of the heel and serves to protect it from damage. A worn heel must be replaced.

Outsole– a detail that protects the sole from abrasion in the toe-toe area. Attached to the sole using glue or nails. Outsoles are made of rubber or composite materials that are resistant to mechanical stress. The welt is another detail that represents narrow strip, which connects the sole to the upper workpiece.

Auxiliary materials- these are the materials used to connect all the parts of the shoe. These include threads and nails.

Internal Components of the Shoe Bottom

The connecting link between the sole and the upper can be called main insole. It refers to those parts on the quality of which the wear resistance of shoes largely depends. It is the main insole that is subject to pressure and compression. Shoes without them are less comfortable, as they expose the feet to abrasion and “do not breathe.” Basic insoles are made of material that absorbs sweat well and at the same time has high performance characteristics. The structure of the main insoles can be single or multilayer. They are made of leather and composite materials. Another important detail of the bottom - removable insole. It is responsible for the comfort, aesthetics and hygienic properties of shoes.

Since shoes are constantly exposed to various external influences during wear, it is very important to use high-quality, wear-resistant materials in production. Each part is subject to wear and tear to a greater or lesser extent, so they are all divided into critical and less critical. Proper selection of materials allows you to ensure uniform wear of shoes.

To better understand how and why a particular shoe is made, shoe store owners and salespeople should understand the different components of a shoe. We all know the sole, the boot, the lining, the insole, the toe box, the heel and the tongue. However, in reality there are much more details in the shoes.

Welt

Load-bearing part of shoes. It is a strip of material that connects the upper of the shoe to the sole.

Hard toe cap

An intermediate part of the shoe upper in the toe part, between the top and the lining. Necessary in order to maintain the shape of the toe and protect the foot from any impact.

Vamp

The outer part of a shoe upper that covers the top of the foot. Often reinforced with textile details: interlining and sidewall, which prevent stretching of the top and deformation of the sides.

Berts

External details of the upper of the shoe, hiding the back of the foot. The berets contain various decorative elements. If we are talking about classic shoes, then these are laces or belts with buckles.

Lining

Inner detail of the shoe upper. Usually made from vegetable tanned leather - it is in direct contact with the foot and should be especially soft and breathable.

Hard ass

Internal heel - a leather element at the back connection of both parts of the upper of the shoe. The part is designed to fix the foot in the shoe.

Sole

The bottom part in direct contact with the ground. For dress shoes, its thickness is usually no more than 5 mm; for durable and functional shoes, it is an order of magnitude thicker.

Insole

A layer of extra soft skin that is in contact with the underside of the foot. When choosing new shoes, it is very important to pay special attention to this insole - it should be made from natural, “healthy” materials and not be painted

Main insole

The part of the bottom of the shoe on which the upper is attached. Most often it is made of leather with a thickness of 2.5-3.5 mm.

Forgiveness

An element used to fill cavities formed during the process of sewing a welt. When walking, it makes the sole more springy and stable.

Gelenok

Wooden or steel spring (10x1.5 cm). Placed in the cavity formed by the welt and insole, from the middle of the heel to the beginning of the instep. The part should provide stable support and prevent the heel from bending.

Heel

As a rule, it consists of 2-4 pieces of leather (“flicks”) and an outer layer (heel) that prevents slipping and wear.

Stroke

A strip of leather that is a continuation of the welt and forms the base for the sole and heel. For shoes with a sewn welt, the edge is attached with wooden pins; in other cases, it is nailed down.