Basics of the profession from Victoria Klopotova: nail modeling. Arched nail modeling - ideal shape and excellent appearance Which gel is best for arched nail modeling

Hi all

Not long ago I wrote a review on gel polish nail polish. Honestly, at that moment I was simply delighted with this procedure. But it so happened that my manicure grew terribly, and my master could not see me. And on the advice of a friend, I turned to another master and..... never returned to the previous one.

This is what she accepted me with:

But she managed to create such a miracle:

But first things first.

I have terrible nails. They are very thin, bend in different directions, brittle and flake. Regular varnish It stays on them for no more than a day, then it starts to peel off. It was simply unrealistic to grow the length and had to be cut off at the root. It didn't look very good, since I have short and chubby fingers, and with nails "under the spine" this problem only gets worse. With gel polish I managed to grow the length, but the manicure lost all its appearance after two or three weeks. Chips began and the nail grew back very unsightly. And then I got to a new master.....

At first everything went as usual. She cut down my old covering with a router and made unedged manicure, and then I sat with round eyes and watched as she worked magic on my nails. Why with round ones? Yes, because my master did everything differently.



She applied some kind of soft pink paste (camouflage gel) to my nails, somehow not evenly at all, in some waves, and dried it in a lamp. Next is another layer of gel, but this time it’s perfectly smooth, but terribly thick.

Then she began to file away the top layer of this gel and level it, level it, level it. I shaped my nails and...I didn’t recognize my nails!

Here's what happened:


What is arch modeling?

This is an extension method with a special way of modeling the arch of the nail plate. Arched modeling involves creating an arch that has a beautiful degree of curvature. It is based on the ideal ratio of length and width of the nail. The result is a correct, beautiful shape. And the strength of the free edge of the plate increases greatly in comparison with other methods. You can file such nails yourself.
Arched nails can help their owner correct the abnormal growth of their own nails. For example, if they bend or, on the contrary, bend upward from the bed as they grow. Neither forms nor tips can give such an effect. Therefore, this technology is especially suitable for those who cannot afford to have natural long nails precisely because of their growth characteristics.

I have “pecking”, curved downward nails on my index and middle fingers. Partly because of this, my gel polish often chipped. Here is an example, you can clearly see both the chip and the “pecking” edge:

I think the difference is obvious. She literally modeled brand new ones for me, beautiful nails, gave them the perfect shape. See, they are completely straight.

I think the difference is obvious.

Of all the designs, I love the regular French one the most. It fits any style, looks neat and not flashy. But before, I couldn’t often afford it because the coating quickly darkened and within a week it lost color and became mottled gray. But with arched modeling this is not the case. The coating remains perfect the entire time you wear it, which is at least a month!


In this photo the coating is a month old! Do you remember the first photo, what I came to the master with? It’s just heaven and earth, even after a month the manicure doesn’t look terrible.


And if with regular gel polish I still managed to break a nail and then had to cut it all off and grow it out again, now this problem has disappeared. I believe that now my nails are completely indestructible. And I often hit the free edge, but I have never broken a nail. Why, I didn’t have a single chip!

In the world of manicure, arched modeling has recently become popular. Having beautiful nails doesn't always require just a manicure or polish. Sometimes there are situations when nails are completely in poor condition and do not grow. Of course, in such situations it is worth talking about the problems of the body, due to which the nails cannot strengthen and become ideal for their owner. But it often happens that natural nails are simply very thin and brittle and therefore cannot grow as the girl wants.

What is arched nail modeling?

But this is why nail extension methods have been created, one type of which is arched modeling. It is worth saying that all girls who have any problems with nails can seek help from such a procedure.

Modeling is that it allows you to create a nail plate that has an ideal shape. They are very similar in structure to real nails, but at the same time they have the shape and size that the girl desires. Of course, you can see a lot of photos on the Internet. long nails, which have a perfect shape and beautiful patterns, this is the modeling method.

Building up arched modeling requires care and a lot of time, because making the right arch (shape) for each nail is not an easy task.

How to perform arched nail modeling

The nail extension procedure consists of several stages. The first thing the master needs to do is file the nail down to 2 millimeters and remove the natural shine from each one.

Use a special product to remove natural oil from each nail and apply a layer of primer.

After drying the nails, apply a base polish, the main thing is not to touch the skin or cuticles. To do this, you need to retreat 1 millimeter from the cuticle area of ​​the nail. After applying the base layer, the nails are dried in an ultraviolet lamp for 3 minutes.

After this, a thin layer of gel is applied to the mold and dried in ultraviolet light. Next you need to remove the dispersion layer

Next, a layer of gel, called camouflage, is laid out and zones of the nail are formed. The main thing in this process is to apply the most a large number of gel to the middle of the nail. There should be a very minimal amount of gel along the edges of the nails. After this, the nails are again placed in the lamp and dried for up to eight minutes.

After this you need to remove sticky layer gel product. A base gel is applied to the layer of the mold that remains free, and a French coat is applied using a white gel. The nails take a few minutes to dry.

The final touch is to apply the finishing gel and dry the nails in ultraviolet light for up to two minutes.

When the gel is applied to the nail and its concentration is greater in the middle, this contributes to the formation of a center of gravity in order to prevent nail breaking.

Benefits of the procedure

The advantages of this type of extension are enough to make you choose it.

Firstly, the shapes perfectly convey the structure of a natural nail. Secondly, correct formation bending the nail can prevent it from becoming brittle and vulnerable. And if a girl has a wide nail shape, then arched modeling will give her hands a more feminine look.

As strange as it may seem, such extensions can change the shape of a natural nail. After several simulations, the girls notice that own nails take the form of extensions and begin to grow exactly as the girl wishes.

But you need to remember that to get the perfect result of nail extensions you need to have experience in such procedures. Therefore, when looking for an extension specialist, you should pay attention to reviews of his work, you can even look at the specialist’s portfolio. Also, when choosing a nail extension artist, you should pay attention to those who can work at home, because then the time for nail modeling will be unlimited, and the master will devote as much time to the procedure as needed.

To understand how arch modeling is carried out, before going to the master, you can watch several videos about this procedure. Usually it shows a complete overview of the wizard’s actions, and what the final result will be.

Of course, it is worth saying that the price for such a procedure will be somewhat high. But after seeing the procedure, you can understand that the materials for extensions are not cheap, and the artist will spend a lot of effort, so the cost justifies the result.

After extensions, you must follow some rules to reduce the risk to the nail plates. In the first days, housework should be done with gloves (made of durable rubber), and the number of situations that can put pressure on the extended nails should be reduced.

Video on the topic of the article

A stylish female image is created from many nuances: from accessories to original manicure. Well-groomed and beautiful nails are the adornment of any beautiful lady. You can maintain the beauty of your hands by modeling your nails. This process involves applying a special artificial material to the plates to give them strength and a beautiful appearance.

Basic modeling methods

This procedure greatly simplifies the life of women, because caring for the plates comes down to visiting a nail salon 2-3 times a week. Natural nails are more likely to break. Modeling can be done using several methods.

  • Acrylic. The plate is strengthened with the help of a special powder, which hardens as a result of synthesis with the liquid. This material requires professional application; at home, such a procedure is hardly possible. Acrylic nails are very durable and beautiful. The coating is removed using a solution.
  • Gel. The most common plate modeling method. Gel nails look very natural. The gel is applied to natural nails, and then to tips (or special forms). Perhaps the disadvantage of the gel method is that it is difficult to remove the platinum. This material can only be cut down.
  • Textile. Lengthening occurs using silk or linen. This method has become obsolete in the modern beauty industry due to its lack of strength. This technique is most often used these days to restore a broken plate.

Nail modeling

The presented methods involve the use of special templates and plastic elements. For example, tips are plastic “tips” of nails. They are various shapes and length. They are attached to the natural nail using special glue. Then the tips are given the desired shape and carefully polished to make them equal to the “native” nail plate. Then the marigolds are covered with glue and sprinkled with special powder. Tips are suitable for those with flat and thin plates with increased fragility.

Modeling using forms (templates) is carried out on short nails. Their main advantage is that they allow you to give your nails any shape and length. This method is relevant for ladies with wide and downward-curving plates. The shape is easy to attach and perfectly follows the shape of natural nails.

Advantages and disadvantages

If we consider the advantages of gel modeling, there are several clear advantages:

  • shiny and shining finish;
  • no pungent chemical odor;
  • coating strength.

At the same time, if the nail is damaged, the material will need to be completely removed and “built up” again (gel nails cannot be restored). When removing the gel, the “original” plates will not avoid damage. Compared to acrylic, gel coating is less durable. When caring for this model, pay attention to the following recommendations:

  • do not expose the plates to sudden temperature changes (the material may crack in the cold) or to chemicals (clean with rubber gloves);
  • try to avoid proximity to open fire (high risk of ignition of the substance);
  • Do not file your nails with metal files.

Acrylic coating is thinner and looks more natural. It can be easily removed by immersing your nails in a special solution. The material is very strong, so you don’t have to worry about breaking the plate during cleaning. Acrylic does not react to low temperatures, does not crack. At the same time, this modeling method has a number of disadvantages:

  • persistent odor;
  • there is a possibility of an allergic reaction;
  • When removed, the natural nail plate is damaged.

Acrylic coating requires careful care. For example, be sure to make corrections in a timely manner and avoid too strong blows that can damage the manicure. Acrylic plates are filed using files made from various materials.

With proper care, artificial nails will retain their shine and amazing beauty for a long time.

Arch method

One of the most popular and prestigious types of extensions is arched nail modeling. This simple method consists of giving the plate arch a certain shape (high degree of curvature). The main task of this modeling is to create a C-curve that maintains the proportions of the width and length of the nail. As a result, nails become incredibly strong.

Arched extensions smooth out the imperfections of natural plates and allow you to create a flawless and luxurious manicure: from everyone’s favorite sophisticated French manicure to stunningly bright prints.

The following step-by-step diagram will help you carry out this modeling:

  • saw off the free edge of the plate (up to 2 mm);
  • polish, removing the natural shine;
  • degrease and coat the plates with primer;
  • Apply a thin layer of gel and dry (UV lamp);
  • take the required form and fix it;
  • add the necessary bend (should coincide with the smile line);
  • create a gel base at the border of the nail and the form and dry it;
  • carefully remove the dispersion layer;
  • apply the next layer of gel (amply on the border and middle);
  • dry (no more than 10 minutes);
  • remove the sticky layer of gel and correct the smile line with a nail file;
  • cover the free edge of the plate with a base layer of gel and dry again;
  • we remove the forms and fix the nails with a vice (to give the necessary silhouette);
  • dry under the lamp for 5-7 minutes and remove the clamps;
  • cover with a thin layer of gel polish;
  • dry.

Note that modeling is a rather expensive procedure. But despite the high cost, extended nails look stylish and elegant at any time of the year. Don't be afraid to experiment - the result will not disappoint you.

To learn how to perform gel extensions on forms, see the following video.

A girl’s hands are one of her main charms. Well-groomed, neat, beautiful hands can say a lot about the taste and elegance of the fair sex. That is why good manicure- an integral part of decent female image. There are many ways to maintain the beauty of your hands, but, undoubtedly, nail modeling has become a leading assistant for ladies in this matter. What it is? What nail modeling technologies exist? Is it possible to do this at home? You will learn about all this by reading this article.

What is nail modeling?

Nail modeling is the process of artificially giving nails the desired length and shape. A special material is applied to the nail, which in its own way chemical composition resembles a substance for dental prosthetics in dentistry.

Girls all over the world resort to this service, because this is one of the most reliable ways to make their nails stronger, of the desired length, with necessary elements decor. But, having decided on such a procedure, you must remember that artificial beauty the suffering of your natural nail plates is hidden. They subsequently require long-term recovery, because... After removing the manicure coating, they peel off and break.

Is it possible to do modeling for yourself?

In the desire to save money on nail art masters or just try yourself in a new creative work, many girls do their own nail extensions and designs. Is it possible? Quite.

But we still advise you to seek help from professionals or at least take special nail modeling courses. The fact is that this process is quite cumbersome, requiring special knowledge and high concentration. Even the most detailed instructions and videos will not be able to fully explain to you all the intricacies of the procedure, but inattention can lead to serious damage to the nail bed.

Nail modeling technologies

There are two main classifications based on the form of extension:

Based on the materials used, there are two methods for modeling nails:

Forms and tips for nail modeling

Forms are certain templates on which gradation is applied for more convenient modeling. Their convenience is that they allow you to create any shape and length, depending on the individual characteristics of your nail. This method is suitable for people with flat, wide plates and those with plates that curve downwards.

Tips are tips made of special plastic that imitate natural nails. They involve working with a ready-made base, so you need to approach their selection with great care. Tips will be good for people with flat narrow plates, trapezoid-shaped nails and damaged, broken or bitten plates. If you have a universal almond or oval shape, then both technologies will suit you.

Gel nail modeling

Advantages of gel modeling:

  • The finish is more shiny or shiny;
  • Absent bad smell chemistry;
  • Gives a lower percentage of shrinkage.

Disadvantages of gel nail modeling:

  • If the manicure is damaged, the coating will have to be completely removed and built up again, because... it cannot be restored;
  • The gel layer cannot be removed on your own - it is cut off with special devices in beauty salons (this greatly injures the natural nails);
  • This type of manicure is more fragile than acrylic nail modeling;
  • Gel polish looks less natural than acrylic, because... its layer is thicker.

Types of gel extensions:

  • Single-phase: the nail is covered with a single layer;
  • Two-phase: first a protective coating is applied, for example gel polish, and then the main one;
  • Three-phase: the coating is laid in three layers, each of which is exposed to ultraviolet radiation. This technology makes the manicure very durable and long-lasting.

Nail care with gel modeling:

  • Do not expose to sudden temperature changes (severe frost may cause cracking);
  • Do not expose to external chemical factors (dishwashing detergents, washing powders, etc.) - do everything with rubber gloves;
  • Keep your hands away from open flames, as... gel – a flammable substance;
  • Do not use metal files for correction.

Acrylic nail modeling

Advantages of using acrylic for extensions:

  • The coating is thinner, so the nail looks more natural;
  • Acrylic manicure is easier to remove: just dip your fingers in a special solution, and the artificial layer will come off on its own, without filing;
  • Acrylic is stronger, so you can do your household chores without worry;
  • Easily tolerates low temperatures.

Disadvantages of acrylic modeling:

  • Quite a persistent unpleasant odor;
  • There is a possibility of an allergic reaction;
  • After removal, the natural shine of the plate may disappear.

Care for manicure with acrylic coating:

  • Make timely corrections;
  • Despite the strength of acrylic, strong blows may damage your manicure, so be careful;
  • Before applying colored varnish, cover the nail with a base coat;
  • Use nail polish removers that do not contain acetone.

Materials for nail modeling

One of the most difficult things in the entire process of nail extensions is finding and purchasing materials. For a quality manicure you will need a lot of them.

  • Forms for modeling nails (forms or tips, depending on which technology you like);
  • Gel or acrylic (based on your preference);
  • Dehydrant (degreaser) – needed to remove excess moisture and excess fat from plates and fingers;
  • Primer is a substance that ensures good adhesion of the natural surface of the nails to the applied material;
  • If you chose acrylic as a material, you will need powder and liquid;
  • Cuticle removal kit (oil, tweezers, etc.);
  • Brushes for modeling nails - needed for direct design work (drawing patterns, drawings, etc.);
  • Decorative elements (rhinestones, varnishes, decorative foil - all at your discretion);
  • Files of different abrasiveness;
  • If you decide to use gel for modeling, you will need ultraviolet lamps.

Arched gel nail modeling - step by step diagram

It is impossible to describe all methods of extension and design in one article. Therefore, we bring to your attention instructions for only the most popular of them, where the material is gel (or gel polish). You can see the details in the attached video. Step-by-step instructions:

  1. Saw off the free edge of the plate to 1.5-2 millimeters;
  2. Polish the nail so that the natural shine disappears;
  3. Degrease with dehydrant;
  4. When the degreaser has dried, coat the plates with primer;
  5. Apply the first layer of gel very thinly. Make sure that it does not get on the skin and cuticle;
  6. Dry the nails under ultraviolet lamps for 2.5 minutes (check the instructions for the gel);
  7. Cut the shape to fit the nail and place it on it;
  8. The curve of the shape should coincide as much as possible with the smile line, otherwise the overall balance will be disrupted;
  9. Make a thin gel base on the stressed part (the border between the edge of the natural nail and the mold);
  10. Dry under ultraviolet rays and then remove the dispersion layer;
  11. Apply a camouflage layer of gel so that most of it falls on the stress area, with the thickest layer in the middle and the thinnest along the edges;
  12. Dry for 7-10 minutes under an ultraviolet lamp (check the exact time in the instructions for the gel);
  13. Remove the sticky layer of gel;
  14. Use a file to file off the smile line;
  15. Apply a base layer of gel to the free edge, spreading it as thinly as possible. If you are planning, then it is at this stage that it is time to work with white gel;
  16. Dry the result for about 1.5 minutes;
  17. Remove the forms;
  18. Secure the nails with a special vice. This will create the desired silhouette;
  19. Dry under the lamp for 3-5 minutes;
  20. After 5 minutes, remove these clamps and adjust the shape with a nail file;
  21. Cover the plates with a fixing layer of gel polish;
  22. Dry under ultraviolet rays for 1.5-2 minutes.

Create, you will succeed!

Video: Gel arched nail modeling - step-by-step diagram

Along with the popular strengthening of natural nails with gel polishes, artificial extension and modeling of the nail shape are no less in demand. For these purposes, the following can be used: forms, tips, coated with gel or acrylic.

The shape is preferable for “correct” nails: the nail plate is long enough, there is a small free edge, the side ridges are soft and convenient for fixing the shape. In the absence of one of the above indicators the best solution will be the use of tips.

Any modeling method must be preceded by a stage of disinfection and manicure (mechanical or hardware), the purpose of which is to prepare the periungual area and remove the cuticle from the nail plate. Each procedure for cutting a natural nail is completed by treating the nail and the skin around it with a disinfectant for natural nails or a fresher.

To model using a form, you will need the following steps (tools):

  • the pterygium and the thin top layer of the nail plate are cleaned with a file with a soft abrasive (180) along the cuticle and side ridges (important - along the growth of the nail);
  • When substituting the form, cut down the front free edge so that its length in the center is 1-1.5 mm, and reduce the corners to nothing, while maintaining the symmetry of the form. The corners are filed towards the center with a 180 grit file;
  • a few light movements with a 180 grit file along the growth of the nail remove the upper fatty layer of the nail plate;
  • the form is fixed on the finger (transparent with a sticky fixing layer or flexible with markings). At this stage, it is important to correctly center the shape and set the desired arch.

This can be done using special forceps, tube templates of different diameters and shapes, or manually, forming a perfect C-bend.

Preparing the nail for attaching tips

  • the free edge is cut as close as possible (0.5 mm) to the front roller, in shape repeating the line of the smile;
  • use a file to remove the top glossy layer of the nail plate;
  • The selection of tips by color depends on the subsequent design and shape of the natural nail. For problem nails, transparent tips are preferable (the joining line is better visible), they are also good for further color painting. Milk-colored tips are ideal for a natural French manicure, as they are identical to the color of a natural nail;
  • The side walls of the tip should come close to the side ridges when applied to the surface of the nail (1/4 - 1/3 of the length from the edge). It is also important that the tip is located perpendicular to the axis of the finger;
  • apply glue for tips (with a brush or from a tube) to the edge of the nail with a thin strip and the same on the inner contacting edge of the tip. Make sure there is enough glue in the corners;
  • The tip is smoothly placed on the nail, starting from the center, then lightly pressed at the corners, and excess glue is removed with a regular sponge towards the tip. Keep ready for 10-15 seconds;
  • The excess length of the tip is cut off; it is most convenient to use the “cutter” tool. For an even cut, the cutter should be positioned perpendicular to the tip;
  • The tip begins with the side lines, which should become a natural continuation of the lines of the natural nail, then the free edge is formed and the surface is sanded with a 180 grit file. In this way, the upper part at the junction is leveled, and the glossy layer of the tip is removed.

When laying out modeling material (gel, acrylic), you should control the thickness of its layer in different areas of the molds or tips. The layer is thicker towards the center, thinner towards the edges (side ridges). Prepare the brush by dipping it in a small amount of material and wiping it paper napkin. Thanks to this, the villi will close tightly, and it will be more convenient for you to lay the material on the nail. When changing gel colors, wipe the brush with nail disinfectant

Modeling the nail plate with gel

  1. apply primer to the entire nail plate (improves adhesion);
  2. applying transparent gel 1-2 mm not reaching the side ridges and cuticle (protects the nail);
  3. drying UV - 2 min, LED - 30 sec;
  4. removing the sticky layer;
  5. Since, unlike tips, the length and shape of the free edge have not yet been specified, they will be formed at this stage with gel and a flat brush for modeling nails. The gel is laid out along the length and stretched to the sides along the smile line. A dry brush for nail modeling will help to correct the clear lines of the free edge;
  6. after polymerization with a gel ball bigger size apply a second volumetric layer to the first zone, align the contours and smile line;
  7. After drying this layer, you can remove the form and begin modeling the second and third zones of the nail.

When working with a gel on a tip, step 5 is skipped and is replaced by applying camouflage gel to the middle part of the nail, slightly extending onto the tip to form a smile line.

Acrylic ball

The acrylic ball is drawn with a natural brush, pointed in shape. Dip into the monomer, squeeze out the excess on the edge of the glass with one side, and dip the brush into the polymer powder. So that the ball does not flow around the tip from all sides, but seems to lie on the brush. Monomer is collected 2 times more than the subsequent amount of powder. Before each set of acrylic, wipe the brush on a paper or lint-free napkin so that the bristles of the brush are collected into one dense tip.

The acrylic ball is applied in 3 passes:

  • the first zone is the tip or free edge of the nail, slightly extending beyond the smile line);
  • the second zone is the middle part of the nail. The largest ball of acrylic is applied to the center, with a soft patting motion with a brush we distribute it to the sides and then bring the excess acrylic back to the center;
  • the third zone - the part closer to the cuticle, the final one, requires the least amount of acrylic, the remains of which are distributed over the entire area of ​​the nail plate to create a smooth, uniform surface.

The smooth transition from natural to artificial nails is improved by sanding in the appropriate areas.

When laying acrylic on the form, first lengthen the nail using camouflage powder, then the steps are identical to those described above.

Removing artificial nails

  • the length of artificial nails is removed by boat;
  • remove shine from the surface with a gash;
  • moisten the coating with acrylic and gel polish remover;
  • wrap your finger in foil and leave for 15-20 minutes;
  • remove the foil, remove the remaining softened material with an orange stick or pusher;
  • the remaining material is cut off with a file with an abrasiveness of 180-240;
  • Apply nourishing cuticle oil and rub in with massage movements.

To correct, you need to remove the top color layer to the base coat; you can use a drum cutter or a nail file. The pusher pushes back the cuticle and smoothes the entire surface of the nail plate with a nail file. A hardware manicure is performed and the transition from an overgrown natural nail to an extended one is smoothed out. A primer is applied to part of the natural nail, followed by a base coat over the entire surface.