A charming blouse with buttons for little girls, decorated with openwork leaves on a round yoke. Knitted in one piece from top to bottom on circular needles, available detailed description work for three sizes and a diagram of leaves. The model can be varied to suit your own needs, for example, knit long sleeve, instead of short, do not add flare, vary the number of buttons. There are photo examples of such variations!
The finishing of the planks in a contrasting color, the tone of which is chosen, looks beautiful Ana buttons.
The pattern made from light yarn looks very elegant. In this option there is no increase after the yoke.
Long sleeve option.
This is how the jacket looks on a baby.
Really " autumn leaves» turned out with fine section-dyed yarn in brown tones.
Instead of stockinette stitch, purl stitch was used, instead of “small rice” - garter stitch.
The blouse can be converted into a dress.
The photo review has come to an end, let's move on to the description.
Dimensions:
6-9 months, 9-12 months, (12-15 months)
You will need:
200, 250, (300) g. medium thickness yarn
circular knitting needles 50 cm long. No. 3.5; 4.5 (5.5)
Yarn needle
2 loop holders
4 markers
6, 7, (8) buttons
Knitting density:
24.5 stitches/32.5 rows=10cm on 3.5mm needles, 18 stitches/29 rows=10cm on 4.5mm needles, (15.5 stitches/23 rows=10cm on 5.5mm needles. ).
Description.
Select your knitting needle size depending on the size of blouse you need and follow the instructions below. Knitting goes from top to bottom (round yoke) in one piece in the forward and reverse directions.
Cast on 55 stitches.
Knit two rows in the “small rice” pattern (Rows 1 and 2: *k1, p1; repeat from * to end of row, finish with k1)
3rd row with a button hole: knit 1, purl 1, yarn over, purl 2 together, continue knitting in the “small rice” pattern until the end of the row.
Knit 3 more rows with the “small rice” pattern. (There are 6 rows in total with the trim pattern for the trim.)
Row 1: (Wrong side): k1, p1, k1, p4, *k1, p3; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2: K1, P1, K1, P1, *K1, (yo, K1) 2 times, P1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.. (79 stitches)
Row 3: K1, P1, K1, P6, *K1, P5; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P1, *K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.. (103 stitches)
Row 5: K1, P1, K1, P8, *K1, P7; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 6: K1, P1, K1, P1, *K7, P1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.
Row 7: Repeat row 5.
Row 8: K1, P1, K1, P1, *K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.. (127 stitches)
Row 9: K1, P1, K1, P10, *K1, P9; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 10: (button hole row) k1, p1, k1, p1, *k9, p1; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, finish k9, purl 2 together, yo, p1, k1.
Row 11: Repeat row 9.
Row 12: K1, P1, K1, P1, *K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.. (151 stitches)
Row 13: K1, P1, K1, P12, *K1, P11; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 14: K1, P1, K1, P1, *K11, P1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.
Row 15: Repeat row 13.
Row 16: k1, p1, k1, *p1, yo, k2tog. with a slant to the left, knit 7, knit 2 together, yarn over; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.. (151 stitches - number of stitches has not changed)
Row 17: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, *p9, k3; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, finish p9, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 18: K1, P1, K1, P2, yo, K2tog. with a slant to the left, knit 5, knit 2 together, * yo, purl 3, yo, knit 2 together. tilted to the left, knit 5, knit 2 together; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, end with yo, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 19: K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P7, *K2, P1, K2, P7; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, finish k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 20: K1, P1, K1, P3, yo, K2tog. with a slant to the left, knit 3, knit 2 together, * yo, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, yo, knit 2 together. tilted to the left, knit 3, knit 2 together; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, end with yo, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 21: K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P5, *K2, P3, K2, P5; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, finish k2, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 22: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, yo, K2tog. with a slant to the left, knit 1, knit 2 together, * yo, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2, yo, knit 2 together. with a tilt to the left, knit 1, knit 2 together; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, end with yo, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 23: (row with button hole): k1, p1, yo, purl 2 together, p2, k2, p3, *k2, p5, k2, 3 purl; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, finish k2, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 24: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, yo, knit 3 together (slip the first stitch as for knitting, knit 2 together, pull the resulting loop through the first slipped loop), *yo, p2, knit 5, p2, yo, knit 3 together (slip the first loop as when knitting, knit 2 together, pull the resulting loop through the first slipped loop); repeat from * to last 8 stitches, end with yo, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 25: K1, P1, K1, P4, K2, P1, *K2, P7, K2, P1;* to last 9 stitches, finish k2, p4, k1, p1, k1..
Row 26: K1, P1, K1, P1, knit to last 4 stitches, finish P1, K1, P1, K1.
There are still 151 stitches left on the needles.
Sleeves:
Row 1: K1, P1, K1, P15. Slip next 36 stitches onto stitch holder, P43, transfer next 36 stitches onto stitch holder, P15, K1, P1. , 1 persons..
Row 2: K1, P1, K1, P1, K13, inc 1 stitch, place marker, K1, K1. in the next loop on the left needle after the loops on the holder, place a marker, add 1 loop, k41, increase 1 loop, place a marker, k1, k1. in the next loop on the left needle after the loops on the holder, place a marker, add 1 loop, k13, p1, k1, p1, k1.. (83 loops on the needles).
Row 3: K1, p1, k1, purl. to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.
Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1. to the marker, add 1 loop, move the marker to the left needle, k2, move the marker to the left needle, add 1 loop, knit. to the marker, add 1 loop, move the marker to the left needle, k2, move the marker to the left needle, add 1 loop, knit. to last 4 stitches, finish p1, k1, p1, k1.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 two more times.
Row 5: K1, P1, K1, P1. to last 3 stitches, finish k1, p1, k1.
Row 6: (button hole row) k1, p1, k1, p1, knit. to last 4 stitches, finish p2 together, yo, p1, k1..
Repeat rows 3-6 until the piece reaches 21.5, 26.5, (31.5) cm from bottom to neckline, or your desired length.
_At the same time_ it is necessary to make holes for buttons every 13 rows (5 cm), starting from the first knitting of the 6th row.
To finish:
Knit 3 rows with a “small rice” pattern.
Knit a row with a button hole.
Knit the last 2 rows with a “small rice” pattern.
Close all loops.
Sleeves ending:
Transfer the stitches of the right sleeve to the knitting needles.
Place it facing you, attach the thread.
K1, k2 together. with a tilt to the left, faces. to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1..
The next row is all purl.
Knit 3 rows with the “small rice” pattern.
Close all loops.
Repeat for the left sleeve.
Sew the seams of the sleeves, hide all the ends, sew on buttons.
A round yoke is an element of clothing knitted in several ways: from top to bottom, from bottom to top, in the transverse direction. In this article we will look at one of them - knitting a yoke from top to bottom, i.e. from the neck to the armpits. When knitting, the fabric expands due to the addition of loops. A round yoke, knitted from top to bottom, is often knitted with openwork patterns or their combination with stockinette stitch.
There are many methods of knitting a garment from the neck down in the round in one piece. The main difficulty with this type of knitting is calculating the number of loops from row to row to expand the fabric from the neck to the edge round yoke.
Example of loop calculation scheme
To calculate, we need to take the following basic measurements - see photo.
- Length at neckline.
If the yoke starts high, along the circumference of the neck, then it is imperative to provide a fastener, otherwise the head will not “fit through.” The same is taken into account when knitting a yoke collar.
If the initial row of the yoke takes into account the girth of the head and the elasticity of the fabric, then this initial measurement for adults will be equal to 50-58 cm and will pass slightly below the base of the neck. (see line 1 in Fig. 1).
- The second measure we need is measurement shoulder girth. It is measured 11-13cm from the first measurement described above. For average fullness, this measurement will be 105 - 115 cm. (see line 2 in Fig. 1 – free measurement in a circle from shoulder to shoulder).
- Maximum body girth over unpressed arms at the height of the armholes. It is measured 12-14 cm from the second measurement - the shoulder girdle measurement. For average fullness, this measurement will be 140-150cm.
The length of the yoke from the first measurement to the third will be equal to your raglan line, i.e. from 23 to 27 cm.
Having taken average measurements, we will see that from the initial measurement of the neckline in a circle to the second measurement of the shoulder girdle in a circle, the measurements have almost doubled (50-58cm and 105-108cm), and the third measurement gives an increase of another 1.3 times . This data allows us to calculate the increase in the number of loops in the yoke from the initial measurement to the bottom of the yoke.
For example, having knitted the sample and made the first measurement, we calculated that the initial row of the yoke corresponds to 90 loops. This means that after 11-13 cm, by the beginning of the second measurement, this number will have to increase by 2 times - 90x2 = 180 loops. Using the sample, we measure how many rows of the pattern these 11-13cm lengths correspond to from the first to the second measurement (let’s say it’s 10 rows). Dividing 90 stitches into 10 rows, we get the answer that in each circular row from the beginning of the yoke to the beginning of the shoulder girdle, we need to add 9 loops in each of the 10 rows.
From this place to the third measurement line, the number of loops should increase by another 1.3 times. That is, 180x1.3 = 234 loops. This means that now you need to calculate how many rows of stitches you need to add in order to reach the calculated figure of 234 loops and reach the armhole line.
In total, the number of loops from the neckline to the armhole level should increase by 2.6 times. This calculation is based on a fitted silhouette. If you like loose silhouettes, the number of loops needs to be increased.
Sprout design
Those knitters who are familiar with knitting raglan from the neckline know that the raglan line of the back is 2 cm longer than the raglan line of the front. This amendment, called the sprout, is needed to ensure that the front of the product does not “run” upward. The back is made longer than the front by these 2 cm by partial knitting, placing these added rows in the pattern unnoticeably.
Moreover, in some publications it is recommended to carry out these increases to lengthen the yoke from the back side by 2-3 cm immediately, when casting on the initial row of the neck, knitting in turning rows until all the calculated loops of the initial row of the yoke are cast on, then close the circle and knit in a circle the entire length coquettes.
There is also a variant of the back lengthening scheme to obtain a sprout by using different knitting needles. For example, the front and sleeves are knitted on knitting needles No. 3, and the back on knitting needles No. 3.5. But here we need to take into account that we will get not only increased length, but also width.
Some recommend lengthening the back after the circular yoke fabric, knitted to the level of the armholes, is divided into sleeves, back and front. To do this, the entire number of loops is divided into 6 parts, focusing on the features of the pattern, and distributed: for each sleeve - one sixth of the part, for the back and front - two sixths of the total number of loops. To the number of front loops, several loops are added at the expense of the back, and 2-3 cm are still knitted on the loops of the back itself.
Now take a closer look at Fig. 2.
In the standard pattern - the basis it is clearly visible that below the level of the armhole, i.e. below the level of the 3rd measurement line known to us, to which we knitted our round yoke (see Fig. 2, circled in red oval) both the width of the back and The width of the front and the width of the sleeves should be increased by the same width of the armholes (by the distance marked with blue arrows) to match your size. At the same time, each part expands in its own direction, knitting separately. When the pieces reach the desired expansion, they can continue to be knitted in the round. To do this, the back and front loops are knitted together in the round. Having knitted 3-4 cm downwards after the armhole line, you can, if necessary, perform a partial knitting along the front of the dart.
In Fig. 3 at point “a” we see that along the back line the yoke should be 2-3 cm longer than along the front, otherwise the yoke will “fit” up the front.
In the same fig. 3 we see that 3-4cm below the armhole line you can create (if necessary) darts.
Knitting darts with knitting needles in short rows
Without knitting the required number of stitches to the end of the row, we yarn over and knit in the opposite direction and repeat the process on the other side. Next R. We don’t knit another 2 stitches. to the last yarn over. Etc., until the desired dart length is reached. Then we knit all the stitches together with yarn overs, i.e. we return to the original number of stitches.
Round yoke for a blouse: video MK for beginners
Loose-fitting round yoke
Pay attention to fig. 4.
In this version, the yoke is knitted in the round with knitting needles high magnification loops and loose fit. In this case, both the sleeves and the front-back panel will be wide and loose. When knitting a round yoke on top, you need to take into account the properties of the pattern itself:
- not all patterns can be knitted in the round;
- not all patterns look beautiful when arranged from top to bottom;
- expansion of the pattern from top to bottom can be done between its repeats by adding yarn overs from broaches, knitting two loops from one, etc.
Yoke patterns should stand out from the rest of the pattern. It is obvious that when knitting strips of openwork or strips of collected motifs along measurement line 2 in Fig. 1 (girth line of the shoulder girdle), such a strip will require a fit along the top line so as not to slide off the shoulders (reducing the fit on the neck side) along an additional measurement line.
Sleeves can be knitted in the round if the chosen pattern allows. You can fit the product along the marked side lines. To do this, decreases are made around the loop chosen for the side line - the loops are knitted together, having previously calculated their number.
There are different patterns and patterns beautiful knitting round yoke with knitting needles. We offer you one of them.
Round openwork yoke knitted on top for a women's sweater, description and diagrams
Calculations for this scheme are made for size 46/48.
The initial number of loops at the neckline is 74p.
1p., 3p., 5p., 7p.: 1p. remove (thread in front of sp.), *2i., 1n., 2i., 2p. remove (thread in front)* – from * to * repeat, 2i., 1n., 2i., 1p. remove (thread before sp.);
2p., 4p., 6p.: 2p. in 1l. for the lower slices, 1l., from 1n. – 2p. (1l., 1i.), 1l., 2p. in 1l. for the upper lobes;
8p.: knit, from yarn over – 2p. (1l., 1i.);
9r., 11r., 13r., 15r.: 1p. remove (thread in front), *3i., 1n., 3i., 2p. remove (thread in front)* – from * to * repeat, 1p. remove (thread in front);
10r., 12r., 14r.: 2p. in 1l. for the bottom slices, 2 l., yarn over - 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the upper lobes;
16 rubles: same as 8 rubles;
17r., 19r.: 1p. remove (thread in front), *4i., 1n., 4i., 2p. remove (thread in front)* – from * to * repeat, 1p. remove (thread in front);
18r., 20r.: *2p. in 1l. for the bottom slices, 3 l., yarn over - 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the upper segments* from * to * repeat, 2p. in 1l. for the upper lobes;
20 rub. tie to the end and join in a circle, knitting the edge sts in 1 st. with neighbors;
21r.: 2p. remove (thread behind sp.), 4l., 1n., 4l.;
22r.: like 18r.;
23r.: 1p. remove (thread behind sp.), * 1n., 1p. remove (thread behind sp.), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread behind sp.)* - repeat from * to *;
24r.: from yarn over, knit 1l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom slices, 3 l., yarn over - 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top Slices;
25r.: 1n., 1l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread behind sp.), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
26r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the lower slices, 3 p., from the yarn over 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. tie in 1l. for the top;
27r.: 1n., 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
28r.: 5l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3 p., from the yarn over - 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
29r.: 1n., 5l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
30r.: 7l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3 p., from the yarn over - 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
31r.: 1n., 7l., 1n., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 1n., 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
32r.: 9l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 2 p., from the yarn over - 2 p. (1l., 1i.), 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
33r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 1l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
34r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 2l., from the yarn over, knit 1l, 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
35r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 5l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
36r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 5l.. 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
37r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 5l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
38r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 7l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 1l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
39r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 7l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 3p. in 1l.;
40r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 9l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 1l.;
41r.: 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 9l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
42r.: 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 11l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l.
Then until the end of the yoke we alternate 41 rubles. and 42r.
Distribution of the pattern by detail: on each sleeve - 2 petals, on the back and front - 4 petals. Next, we knit the sweater with knitting needles in any chosen pattern. But don’t forget to knit an increase under the armhole along the raglan line with a yarn over across a row along the central loop of the armhole. The height of this line is 8-9cm.
Yoke with leaves: video master class
Selection of schemes
Knitted jacket “with leaves” for a girl up to one year old
A cute knitted jacket for a girl with a very original yoke design with “leaves”
The jacket for a girl is made with beautiful openwork knitting at the base, elastic on the sleeve cuffs and 7 leaves on the yoke around the neckline.
Size: 0/3 (6/12) months.
Materials: 1 (2) skein of BernatSofteeBaby yarn (100% acrylic, 140 g/331 m), knitting needles 3.5 and 3.75 mm, 4 stitch holders, 12 markers, 2 buttons with a diameter of 1 cm, needle, hook 3.75 mm.
Knitting density: 24 loops * 32 rows = 10 * 10 cm using large knitting needles, stockinette stitch.
Openwork pattern:
1st row: k1, *p1, yarn over, pull through, repeat from * to last. 2 loops, purl 1, knit 1.
2nd row: k2, *p2, k1, repeat from * to last. loops, 1 persons.
Row 3: K1, P1, *K2tog, yo, P1, repeat from *, K1.
4th row: knit as the second row.
Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.
2 persons together. (decreases with a tilt to the left): Using the right knitting needle, thread the second loop of the left knitting needle, then the left loop, knit the loops together. behind the front walls.
Broaching (decreasing with a tilt to the right): remove the loop on the right knitting needle, knit 1, throw the removed loop over the knitted one.
Double decrease: remove 2 loops on the right knitting needle (as if you wanted to knit them 2 knits together), knit 1 knit, throw the two removed loops onto the knitted one (decreased 2 loops).
Knit a loop twice: First knit the next loop behind the front wall (do not remove the loops from the left knitting needle), then knit again but behind the back wall (add 1 loop).
Knitted jacket for girls, job description:
Yoke: Using smaller knitting needles, starting from the neckline, cast on 70 stitches.
Knit 5 rows with knit stitches (garter stitch), starting from the wrong side.
Next, make additions and a hole for the button:
1st row (front side): k5, p1, k3, * add a loop, k4, repeat from * to the last 6 loops, p1, k1, bind off 2 loops ( button hole), 2 faces. = 81 loops.
2nd row: k2, cast on 2 loops, k2, * purl 9, k1, repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
Next, start making the leaf pattern according to the diagram:
1st row: k5, * p1, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, p1, k5. = 95 loops.
2nd row: k6, *p11, k1, repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
3rd row: k5, *p1, k5, yo, k1, yo, k5, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, p1, k5. = 109 loops.
4th row: k6, *p13, k1, repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
5th row: k5, *p1, place a marker in this loop, k6, yo, k1, yo, k6, repeat from * to last. 6 stitches, purl 1, place a marker in this stitch, k5. = 123 loops.
6th row: knit 5, knit 1. (loop with marker), *knit purl to next. loops with marker, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
Only for size 6/12 months:
Row 7: K5, *P1. (loop with marker), knit 7, yo, knit 1, yo, knit 7, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5. = 137 loops.
8th row: knit 5, knit 1. (loop with marker), *knit purl to next. loops with marker, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
For all sizes: knit according to pattern I (II), repeating the rapport of 16 (18) loops - 6 times wide, where the lower part of the seven leaves is divided by a shawl pattern:
1st row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), yarn over, pull through, knit until the last two stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, * knit 1, (loop with marker), yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 2 stitches before the stitch with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
2nd row: k6, *k1, purl until the last stitch before the marker stitch, k1, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
3rd row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), k1. Yarn over, pull through, knit until the last 3 stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, * knit 1, (loop with marker), knit 1, yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 3 stitches before the loop with marker, k2 together, yarn over, k1, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
4th row: k6, *k2, purl until the last 2 stitches before the marker stitch, k2, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
5th row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), k2. Yarn over, pull through, knit until the last 4 stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2, * knit 1, (loop with marker), knit 2, yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 4 stitches before the stitch with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k2, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
Row 6: K6, *K3, purl until the last 3 stitches before the marker stitch, K3, K1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
7th row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), k3. Yarn over, pull through, knit until the last 5 stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 3, * knit 1, (loop with marker), knit 3, yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 5 stitches before the stitch with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k3, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
Row 8: K6, *K4, purl until the last 4 stitches before the marker stitch, K4, K1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
9th row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), k4. Yarn over, pull through, knit until the last 6 stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 4, * knit 1, (loop with marker), knit 4, yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 6 stitches before the stitch with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k4, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
Row 10: K6, *K5, purl until the last 5 stitches before the marker stitch, K5, K1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
11th row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), knit 5. Yarn over, pull through, knit until the last 7 stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 5, * knit 1, (loop with marker), knit 5, yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 7 loops before the loop with marker, k2 together, yarn over, k5, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
Row 10: K6, *K6, purl until the last 6 stitches before the marker stitch, K6, K1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
Only for size 6/12 months: 
13th row: knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), knit 6. Yarn over, pull through, knit until the last 8 stitches before the next. loop with marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 6, * knit 1, (loop with marker), knit 6, yarn over, pull through, knit until last. 8 stitches before stitch with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k6, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 purl. (loop with marker), knit 5.
Row 14: K6, *K7, purl until the last 7 stitches before the marker stitch, K7, K1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
For all sizes:
Track. row of the pattern (front side): knit 5, purl 1. (loop with marker), * knit 6 (7), yo, double dec, knit 6 (7), knit 1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 knits.
Remove markers.
Last row of the pattern: k13 (14), p1, * k15 (17), p1, repeat from * to last. 13 (14) loops, 13 (14) knits.
The scheme is finished.
Track. row: knit 5, purl 1, knit to last. 6 loops, p1, k5.
Track. row: persons. loops.
Track. row (inc): k5, p1, k1, *knit a loop twice, repeat from * to last. 8 (9) loops, k2 (3), p1, k1, bind off 2 loops (button hole), k2. = 231 (258) loops.
track. Row: K2, cast on 2 stitches, knit to end of row.
Go to large knitting needles.
Knit in an openwork pattern - 10 (14) rows, finish with a purl row.
Divide the loops: the first 33 (44) loops for the right shelf, next. 48 (51) loops for the right sleeve, next. 68 (79) loops for the back, next. 48 (51) loops for the left sleeve, the last 33 (44) loops for the left front.
Sleeves: remove the loops of the left sleeve onto large knitting needles, connect the thread.
Knit in an openwork pattern - 10 (12.5) cm.
Switch to smaller needles and knit:
1st row (front side): k2tog, *p2tog, k1, repeat from * to last. 4 loops, purl 2 together, knit 2 together. = 31 (33) loops.
2nd row: *P1, k1, repeat from * to last. loops, 1 p.
3rd row: *K1, P1, repeat from * to last. loops, 1 persons.
Repeat the last two rows 3 times, then repeat the 2nd row one more time.
Close the loops into the pattern.
Repeat knitting for the right sleeve.
First I collected models of yokes with petals, tied above from the neck (photos are enlarged)
First, cast on the required number of loops and knit with facial loops along the face and back of 2 cm, then along all the loops you knit two knits together, a yarn over, and another row (on the wrong side) of knits. loops. Now we begin to knit a yoke.
I used thick threads for testing, there were no others (260m in 100g) and I got 10 leaves, ideally 12. Even rows are knitted purl-wise.
Row 1 - knit 1, knit 2, yo, knit 1, yo, knit 2, purl 1..... at the end of the row knit 2 (purl, the final rapport is not knitted), selvedge 1.
Row 3 - 1 edge, k3, yo, 1 knit, yo, 3 knits, 1 purl..... at the end of the row 3 knits, 1 edge.
Row 5 - 1 edge, k4, yo, 1 knit, yo, 4 knits, 1 purl..... at the end of the row 4 knits, 1 edge.
Row 7 - 1 edge, k5, yo, 1 knit, yo, 5 knits, 1 purl.....at the end of the row 5 knits, 1 edge.
Row 9 - 1 edge, yarn over, knit 2 together, k9, knit 2 together, yarn over, purl 1.....at the end of the row, yarn over, 1 edge.
Row 10 and all subsequent rows are purl. We knit loops and yarn overs from the 9th row, purl all the rest. loops
Row 11 - 1 chrome, yarn over, knit 2 together, k7, knit 2 together, yo, purl 3..... at the end of the row, yo, 1 chrome.
Row 13 - 1 chrome, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, yo, purl 5.....at the end of the row, yo, 1 chrome.
Row 15 - 1 chrome, yarn over, knit 2 together, k3, knit 2 together, yo, purl 7..... at the end of the row, yo, 1 chrome.
17th row - 1 chrome, yarn over, knit 3 together, yo, 9 purl..... at the end of the row, yo, 1 chrome.
Then we knit the faces. loops of rows 6-8.
Now we distribute the loops, there are two loops per raglan line, in total we have 4 raglan lines, which means 2x4 = 8 loops. From the total number of loops we subtract 2 edge and 8 raglan loops, divide the remaining loops by 3 (front, two sleeves, back). Let's say we have 142 loops.
142-2-8=132
132/ 3 = 44
This means there will be 22 loops (44/2) + edge loops on the shelves
There are also 22 loops on the sleeves (44/2)
44 loops on the back
It will turn out like this: 1 edge, 22 right front loops, 2 raglan loops, 22 right sleeve loops, 2 raglan loops, 44 back loops, 2 raglan loops, 22 left sleeve loops, 2 raglan loops, 22 left front loops, 1 edge - 142 in total and knit by adding knits in each. row, one yarn over on each side of the raglan line. That's all.
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Girls, I’ll write how I knit the raglan top myself. It is very easy. After the yoke, we count the resulting loops. I got 158 loops.
I took 2 loops for 4 raglan lines. 158-8 I have 150 left.
These 150 were divided into 3 equal parts. 50 stitches per chest, sleeves and back. Since our breast is not entirely knitted, I divided 50 loops in half - 25 loops for the left half of the breast and 25 for the right.
For sleeves, we also divide 50 loops in half, 25 loops for each sleeve.
In the end it turns out like this:
25 p. left half of the breast - 2 p. raglan line - 25p. left sleeve - 2 p. raglan line - 50 p. back - 2 p. raglan line - 25 p. right sleeve - 2 p. raglan line - 25 p., right half of the breast. (25-2-25-2-50-2-25-2-25).
If there are loops left after dividing into three parts, then I usually add them to the back. And after the calculations, we simply knit to the desired width of the back, adding 1 loop BEFORE and AFTER each raglan line in each front row. We knit the wrong ones according to the pattern. To avoid confusion, at first you can put markers on each part or simply knit the raglan lines purl-to-purl. During the knitting process, you can constantly apply it to the baby.
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"Rostock" in raglan
Divide the sleeve loops into 4 parts and mark 4 points with pins. These will be the turning points (in the future there will be 4 extra rows on the back). When you reach the fourth point, turn the knitting. Then do the same on the other side, turn. Then turn to the third point. And so on until the last first point, there will be 4 turning points in each sleeve, and the back will be higher by 4 front rows (or 8 regular rows). And then knit everything smoothly. For example, from the middle of the front to the opposite sleeve (clockwise), then to the other sleeve and at the same time until the end of the growth, the “sprout” in the front will no longer be knitted. The last turning point will be the 4th point on the sleeve, then everything is knitted in a complete row. Knit a small section, increasing (adding) loops on the sides.
I knit the back loops, gradually introducing the sleeve loops, in 3-5 steps, depending on the thickness of the thread. Yes, but in children's products they do not always make a sprout; in this model you can knit without it.
Knitting a yoke from below
