Couture style. Let's understand Haute Couture, or the origin of the term “Haute Couture”. Useful topic in French “La mode francaise”. "Couture" in the modern world

Have you ever heard of such a thing as “haute couture”? Do you think not? You are mistaken, of course, you have heard: “haute couture” is a phrase that comes precisely from the French concept “haute couture”, which, if translated literally, means “haute tailoring” or “high fashion”.

And, by the way, this does not mean at all something like “from Versace” or “from Petrovich,” as is sometimes understood in Russian speech, “haute couture” is the highest sign of quality, which indicates the high value of a particular fashion object.

Today, haute couture is considered the highest segment of the entire fashion market, which presents to the world the best and most exclusive clothing models produced by the most fashionable and famous Fashion Houses.

In fact, clothes from such collections can be equated to family jewelry, because their cost can easily exceed a hundred thousand dollars, while each model is created exclusively for his customer, most often containing more than one meter of unique and extremely expensive fabric, as well as abundance of jewelry.

“Haute couture” is always a lot of money, a real show and better model world, which are harmoniously combined with unique craftsmanship, centuries-old traditions laid down by the first couturiers, as well as the real soul of the art of tailors and fashion designers.

The history of haute couture

What is haute couture today? To answer this question, it is important to delve into the history of the emergence and development of this concept. “Haute couture” is not just something unique, exclusive and insanely expensive. In order for a couturier to be able to create haute couture clothes, he must receive a special certificate and become a member of the Paris Syndicate of Haute Couture.

The latter is an exclusively French trade union that operates according to fairly strict rules. For example, such clothing must be 70% hand-sewn, and the fabric for its creation must be selected exclusively from those models that were presented at Haute Couture Week.

It is believed that the first real couturier is C. F. Worth, who specially moved to Paris in 1858 and opened his fashion house there. Why him? Yes, because it was Worth who first began to dictate his rules to dear clients, which they appreciated and accepted. It was he who began to differentiate collections depending on the seasons; his models were represented by real girls, and not rag dolls, as was previously accepted.

He was the first to sew personalized ribbons onto his outfits, which testified to the true origin of each model that came out of his hands. It must be said that all the innovations put forward by Worth were quickly adopted by other fashion designers, who called him a real revolutionary in the fashion world.

Today, in order to join the ranks of “Haute couture”, it is necessary to submit an application to the Syndicate of Haute Couture, where it will be reviewed and subjected to careful study. For example, to obtain the coveted status, which, note, can only be obtained by having a main production facility in Paris, and at the same time, it must employ at least 20 permanent employees, among whom there are top specialists in silk, cutting, as well as permanent fashion models.

Every year the Fashion House is obliged to release at least 2 collections, which feature 50 fresh models. In addition, you must pay a considerable entrance fee, but what status is acquired through difficult conditions!

"Couture" in the modern world

Surprisingly, most of the fashion traditions that were dictated by Worth more than 100 years ago continue to be observed in the world of High Fashion today! As then, dresses are created exclusively according to the customer’s figure, and all models presented on the catwalk are nothing more than samples.

As many years ago, such things are very expensive, sometimes a fortune, which is inherited or, over time, put up for auction. As a rule, such clothes are worn only a couple of times for extremely significant and pompous events that have special significance in the world.

Designers from such a fashion house approach each new look with special attention and vigilance; with each order, many questions are asked so that two dresses from the same collection cannot “meet” at the same event.

In general, not all even wealthy people can afford such a luxury; each of the Houses, on average, serves about 150 privileged regular clients. Some say that haute couture is a relic of the past, however, be that as it may, it is a real cultural heritage of France, a storehouse of centuries-old experience and ancient knowledge that distinguishes such clothes from the stamped “made in China”.

“My dresses are ephemeral pieces of architecture designed to celebrate the proportions of the female body.”

Christian Dior

All the women of the world are incredibly delighted with just one word "Haute Couture". Where did this concept come to us from, and what does it really mean? Haute couture - literally translated from French as “haute couture/high tailoring.” That is, haut(e) is read according to the rules of the French language “from” - and means high / upper / expensive / significant.
Couture in translation means tailoring, sewing craft, fashion. High fashion includes the creativity of leading fashion houses, which set the tone for all international fashion, as well as unique models that are produced in famous fashion salons according to the client's order, in a single copy. The very concept of “haute couture” appeared in the middle of the 19th century. Then the first fashion salons and the first fashion designers began to appear. Haute couture owes its appearance to Charles Frederick Worth. In 1858, this English fashion designer opened his Fashion House in Paris and was the first to distribute collections by season. Today, Haute Couture houses include: Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Dior, Jeanne Lanvin, Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Ralph Rucci, Gianfranco Ferré, Gianni Versace, Valentino Garavani, John Galliano and others. The number of high fashion houses does not change often, and almost always stays around the number 20. The reason is a very strict selection and extremely high requirements for candidates. If you want to say high fashion houses, fashion houses and other synonyms in French, then remember the following phrases: les grandes maisons de couture, les maisons de haute couture, les maisons de mode, les grandes maisons de mode. How talk about fashion in French, you can find out by reading below short topic in French, written by me personally.

La mode francaise

La France est la capitale de la mode mondiale, des parfums raffinés et des designers talentieux. Les noms Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent, Givenchy sont associés à l’ère de la Haute Couture quand les vêtements ont devenu l’art.

Coco Chanel Est la personne la plus importante dansl’histoire de la mode du XXe siècle. Chanel a crée une petite robe noire et des chapeaux pour les femmes extraordinaires. Un tailleur “de Chanel” est devenu un symbole d’une nouvelle génération: fait en tweed, avec une jupe étroite, une veste sans col avec des boutons dorés. Coco Chanel a inventé beaucoup de vêtements modernes, qui nous semblent tout à fait ordinaires: un sac en bandoulière et des pantalons pour les femmes. En plus, l'un des parfums les plus connus dans le monde est le Chanel No. 5.

Christian Dior a créé un concept entièrement nouveau dans sa première collection en 1947. C’étaient des robes romantiques en soie et en mousseline. Il aussi aimé des parfums. Il y a totalement 97 parfums Dior, le premier d’entre eux a été lancé en 1947 — Christian Dior Miss Dior.

La Maison de Givenchy a été fondée en 1952 par M. Hubert de Givenchy. Il a été le premier couturier qui a inventé le terme “prêt-à-porter”. Audrey Hepburn présentait cette maison, ses personnages sur l'écran portaient toujours des robes Givenchy.

Yves Saint Laurentétait le successeur de la maison Dior. C'est grâce à lui la garde-robe féminine a revêti le caractère masculin: vestes en cuir, bottes à l'écuyère et des costumes pour les femmes. On le nomme le fondateur du style unisexe.

Although such a concept as “haute couture” is known to many, some still do not fully understand what it means, much less what it is needed for in general.

In order to find out how “haute couture” was born, what has the right to be called “haute couture”, and how it influences fashion in general, you need to go to Paris, and only to Paris, because that’s where it exists Paris Syndicate of Haute Couture.

Haute couture originated in the mid-19th century, when the first fashion salons began to appear.

English fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth captivated Parisian society with his masterpieces. His luxurious products were rated so highly not only because of the expensive material, handmade work and excellent execution. Each Worth masterpiece was signed by the master himself, and the road to high society was open to the lady who wore such a dress.

In 1868, the Paris Committee of the Garment Industry Trade Union was created, and already in 1943 a law was passed according to which “haute couture” fashion designers received equal rights with literary and artistic workers.

What creations of fashion designers have the right to be called “haute couture”.

According to the Paris Syndicate of Haute Couture, couture products must be at least 70% handmade. This is mainly achieved using embroidery and appliqués. All products are made from fabric specially made for them, which is extremely expensive and of high quality. This is why haute couture items are so expensive.

Each Fashion House has a staff of artisans, the number of which must be at least 20 people. Thanks to the work of these highly qualified specialists, unique lace, pleating, decorations, buttons, costume jewelry and other accessories are produced. It can take approximately 100-150 hours of intense work to create one outfit. manual labor. Creating an evening dress with embroidery requires several thousand hours of manual work

Twice a year, the Fashion House is obliged to present a show of at least 50 haute couture models to the international press. Typically, Haute Couture Weeks avoid any connection with ready-to-wear shows, although they are presented by the same houses. Shows take place in January and July, usually at the Croiselle du Louvre complex.

High Fashion Weeks are attended by the richest and most famous people in the world, who can easily afford to buy a dress for 100 thousand dollars or even more.

To obtain haute couture certification, a fashion house must be located in the capital of France. Belonging to a Haute Couture House is protected by law, and the list of Haute Couture Houses is compiled by a special commission under the French Ministry of Industry. Foreign Couturiers can only be corresponding members of the Syndicate. So, for example, the fashion houses of Versace and Valentino may be invited to High Fashion Week, but due to the fact that they do not meet all the criteria, they are not called “haute couture”, but simply “couture”.

Why do you need “haute couture”?

I’m sure many people have asked this question, because most of the outfits are absolutely unwearable, and due to their astronomical price, they are also out of reach!

The whole point is this - the hype and showiness of this kind of event provides an excellent opportunity for designers to raise the image of their homes and attract as many clients as possible. Haute Couture weeks are followed by Ready-to-wear shows, which generate the main income. Seeking the luxury, glitz and glamor seen at Haute Couture shows, admirers of the designer’s talent are buying up his ready-to-wear collections.

And of course, Haute Couture prepares a springboard for ready-to-wear creations; it is from there that designers draw new ideas, images, colors and silhouettes.

Celebrities are happy to show off their haute couture outfits on the red carpet.

Dior Haute Couture Spring 2010

The highest craftsmanship of sewing art, exclusive models produced by the most famous designers and fashion houses.

To be able to create haute couture clothing, you must obtain a certificate. According to the rules prescribed in 1868 by the Parisian (Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne), such clothes must be hand-sewn by at least 70% and from specially created fabrics for Haute Couture models.

Only Parisian fashion houses can obtain a certificate for the production of Haute couture models. To do this, it is necessary that the Fashion House consists of at least 20 people and presents at least fifty new models twice a year.

However, in other countries there are fashion houses that create haute couture models in their homeland, for example, and. But since they are not located in Paris, their collections do not have the right to be called Haute couture in this city.

The first famous couturier was a French fashion designer of the 19th century.Charles Frederick Worth . He introduced the possibility for a client to order a dress he liked in his atelier, began creating small collections and distributing them by season. Charles Frederick Worth was the first to use mannequins for his collections. He also introduced licensing for the mass creation of copies of his collections under his own name.

Designers such as Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Dior have been and continue to be involved in the creation of Haute Couture collections. Christian Dior), Emanuel Ungaro, Hubert de Givenchy, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, Gianni Versace, Christian Lacroix, Gianfranco Ferre, Yves Saint-Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and many others.

Today, as in the 19th century, Haute couture clothing is created to individual measurements for each client. It takes over 150 hours of manual labor, several meters of unique fabric and a lot of jewelry. Therefore, only very wealthy people can afford to order a haute couture dress.

The cost of Haute Couture clothing can exceed $100,000. As a rule, it is worn 2-3 times. Afterwards, the owner either carefully stores it in his own collection of haute couture clothing and then passes it on as an inheritance, or donates it to a museum fund or puts it up for auction.

Haute couture is something special and magical. High fashion beckons and enchants not only with the abundance of expensive decorative elements and the most delicate fabrics, as well as its inherent inaccessibility. Haute couture clothing is an expensive pleasure that is created for a single person in one copy. What causes such noise around the described phenomenon, read on.

History of origin

The concepts of “haute couture” and “high fashion” appeared in the mid-nineteenth century, when the first fashion salons began to operate. Then fashion designers gained power over the world and dictated their own demands to society. Created toilets from satin and silk fabrics, decorated with pearls and precious stones, turned their heads fair half humanity, especially representatives of the nobility.

The founder of couture is Charles Frederick Worth, an Englishman who opened his own fashion house in Paris, which combined a secular salon and a luxury store. The wonderful work on the dress for Madame Metternich brought Worth unprecedented popularity and excellent appreciation from Empress Eugenie Montijo.

We can say that Charles formed the principles of “haute” sewing: treating clothing as a separate form of art and exclusively handmade. His creations have been preserved and today adorn places of honor in museums.

In 1868, the Paris Committee of the Trade Union of the Garment Industry (Haute Couture Syndicate) was opened, which to this day unites famous fashion salons and companies in Paris. This is where fate is made fashion trends, legal issues in this industry are resolved.

General requirements

Haute couture is not custom-made clothing from well-known brands or things that are easy to find on store shelves. This is, first of all, uniqueness in the literal sense. In order for a fashion house to create haute couture clothing, it must meet the following requirements:

  1. Production necessarily falls under the jurisdiction of the French Department of Industry. So, the main atelier, all workshops and branded stores should be located in the capital of France - Paris. This guarantees security at the legislative level.
  2. The staff has at least twenty employees.
  3. The collection will be shown twice a year (two seasonal lines). Moreover, the fashion show demonstrates more than thirty dresses for day and evening. Haute Couture Week has nothing to do with ready-to-wear shows and takes place in January and July (usually at the Croiselle du Louvre complex).

There is also the concept of “corresponding members” - foreign houses with headquarters in other states. They are invited to shows, but due to the fact that the companies do not meet all the criteria, they are simply called “couture”.

The main feature of haute couture clothing:

  • tailoring to the client's parameters (minimum number of fittings - 3);
  • unique design;
  • use of exclusively exclusive fabrics;
  • decoration with precious stones (often family jewels).

Basic rules

A couture outfit is not just a purchase. This is also a great responsibility, knowledge of certain rules and responsibilities:

  1. A couture dress is bought only for a specific occasion (red carpet, royal ball, etc.).
  2. You are only allowed to wear the dress once. A second appearance in an outfit is allowed after ten or even fifteen years, when the item can also be called vintage.
  3. To purchase, the lady must be at least sixteen years old (etiquette is already involved here).
  4. Patiently waiting for the result.

It is worth noting the fact that many stars (singers, actresses, models) rent a dress. This move helps the house find more influential buyers.

Founders of high fashion houses

Famous fashion designers who can create haute couture creations:

  1. Giorgio Armani is an Italian couturier who founded the Armani company. In 2005, he first launched his own couture collection called Armani Prive.
  2. Cristobal Balenciaga is a Spanish fashion designer who created the haute couture house Balenciaga. He is considered the only creator capable of independently modeling, cutting, cutting and sewing.
  3. Pierre Balmain is a French fashion designer whose outfits have conquered not only fashion catwalks, but also the scenes of wonderful films.
  4. Gianni Versace is the man who combined two wonderful phenomena: music and fashion.
  5. Christian Dior is a French couturier, about whom various directors created legendary films.
  6. Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy is again a fashion designer from France, whose fashion understanding and worldview was embodied by two stars and youth idols: Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy.
  7. Coco Chanel, the founder of the Chanel fashion house, had an incredible influence on the development of European culture. She demonstrated “luxurious simplicity” in her own creations.

It turns out that it’s not for nothing that there is so much noise and attention around couture clothing. High fashion is magic and originality.