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Instructions

Take a closer look, watch the pet. If the bird is healthy, it should have clean plumage, tightly pressed to the body, clean clear eyes, a good reaction to the external environment, sounds, it sings and makes calls, a lot and with pleasure. If a bird sits on a perch on both with half-closed eyes and does not respond to sounds, sleeps, hiding its head under, even during the day, then there is cause for alarm. Other illnesses may include difficulty breathing, mucous discharge from the nostrils, weak or, conversely, excessive appetite.

If the bird is kept indoors, it may not have enough ultraviolet radiation. You can purchase a mercury-quartz lamp at a medical store and turn it on indoors at the required “dosage,” making sure that the bird does not get direct light. Ultraviolet irradiation will help increase resistance to infectious and colds. Birds must be kept at a constant, suitable air temperature. Hypothermia or overheating can lead to weakness and illness.

If the bird has improper molting, bald patches appear due to the fact that feathers fall out and new ones do not grow - shorten the daylight hours to 9 hours and feed the bird green food and food containing sulfur (oatmeal, chicken egg white, cottage cheese)

Do not overfeed your birds, especially fatty foods, otherwise they may become constipated. If a bird sits down as if to defecate and shakes its tail, but cannot empty its intestines, drop a couple of drops of Vaseline oil into its beak and cloaca; castor oil will also work. If the bird, on the contrary, suffers from diarrhea, eliminate green food for a while, give it colza, rapeseed or a little poppy.

Birds can suffer from a much wider range of diseases with completely human names; in this case, it is better to contact a veterinarian for qualified help.

Treatment of wild, domestic and exotic birds is carried out by a veterinarian who specializes in the treatment of birds. In English this specialty is called Avian Veterinarian; This specialty can be translated into Russian as “bird doctor.”

There is a persistent meme on the RuNet that ornithologists treat birds.
This is not true!

Ornithologists are biologists who specialize in ornithology. Ornithology studies the biology of birds. In other words, ornithologists study the life of birds in nature: what they eat, what behavioral features they have, they study numerous issues related to the life of birds in free conditions, but ornithologists do not treat birds.

Accordingly, the term veterinary ornithologist means a specialist who has two higher educations: higher veterinary + higher biological with a specialization in the field of ornithology.

The term veterinarian ornithologist means that this specialist has a specialized secondary veterinary education (i.e., a graduate of a veterinary technical school/college with a specialty as a veterinary paramedic) + a higher biological education with a specialization in ornithology.

So,
Veterinarians treat birds for diseases.
Veterinary paramedics - carry out the appointments of veterinarians.
Ornithologists study birds in their natural habitat.

What does the process of treating poultry consist of?

Treatment of a bird is often a long process that requires the owner of the bird to fully concentrate on the treatment process, because we are talking about the fight for the life of the bird. Contrary to popular belief, birds are very hardy animals and resist disease for a long time. In most cases, the moment the owner of a bird notices that it is “unhealthy” means that the bird has been developing a problem for a long time and often for several years.

1. Restoring proper feeding

Treatment of poultry necessarily includes, i.e. inclusion in the diet of components that your bird needs during its recovery period.

2. Providing the bird with normal physical activity

In addition to food, it is important to note that the bird must move normally. The bird must move exactly in the way its body is designed for - fly, walk, climb.
Eliminating the infectious cause of a bird's disease is only 10% of the success of treatment. In order for the bird to fully recover, it is necessary to provide the bird with the opportunity to move naturally.
If a bird lives in a cramped cage, in an insufficiently lit, dusty and/or noisy room, if there are people or pets around it that bring anxiety to the bird, then it is extremely difficult to cure such a bird, which is in a state of constant stress - it is necessary to eliminate external stress factors .

3. Diagnosis of bird diseases.

Before starting treatment for birds (especially when it comes to chronic diseases), I schedule a collection of all necessary tests. This always includes the required minimum data:

— X-ray

X-ray examination is the safest, least stressful, widely available and very informative method for diagnosing bird diseases.
Digital x-rays are required in two projections: the bird on its back, the bird on its side.
X-ray images are needed digitally, because using a conventional (analog) X-ray machine, it is almost impossible for a radiologist who does not have constant experience working with birds to achieve the necessary detail in the images.

Additional tests and studies may be needed. If there is a need for them, I will inform you about this additionally. It can be:

• Clinical and biochemical blood tests
• Cytological and histological analyzes of tissues and biological materials

Only when the owner of a sick bird does not have the opportunity to do tests or the situation is urgent, do I begin treatment of the bird without tests.

I work closely with veterinarians, laboratories and clinics, so I have accumulated a large database with addresses of laboratories and clinics in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, which have the ability to conduct tests and examine birds.

It is necessary to take into account that some diseases of birds (such as, for example, aspergillosis and tuberculosis) due to the specificity of the pathogen are extremely difficult to diagnose even with laboratory diagnostics - in such cases a series of repeated studies is often required. It is also important to know that not all diagnostic methods are safe for birds.

4. Treatment of birds

After receiving the necessary diagnostic information from you, I will prescribe treatment.

In situations where the bird has other chronic health problems and there is time to prepare the patient for treatment, I prescribe the bird a preparatory course of medications and a therapeutic diet. In addition to preparing the bird's body for drug treatment, this gives time to acquire owners all necessary medications.

Sometimes, when treating certain diseases of birds, it becomes necessary to provide the patient with oxygen - for this you will need oxygen pillows, oxygen cylinders or an oxygen concentrator. When such a case occurs, time is of the essence and you should decide in advance on the place where you can get them in an emergency.
The first aid kit of the owner of a sick bird should contain medications in case complications arise - I will tell you in advance about everything that you will need to purchase for such a case.
After prescribing treatment, I set a control period during which we will contact you so that you inform me about the condition of your bird. You will need to send me:

Procedure for treating birds

1. You contact me in any way convenient for you. When I am in Moscow, I make house calls. For remote communication (if you, for example, are not in Moscow), you need to send me an email or in social networks( , ) or instant messengers (Skype, Viber, WhatsApp) 1-2 minute video of the bird, a photo of its fresh droppings, a clear photo of the problem area, test results (if you have them), a list of all drugs and dosages that have already been used in regarding poultry treatment.

After analyzing the information received from you, I will let you know if it is possible in your case. remote treatment.
If remote treatment is possible, I order the necessary tests and prescribe primary treatment. You
I cannot solve surgical problems remotely, but I can advise your veterinarian on anesthesia regimens for your bird and the optimal methods of surgical care.

2. If you have questions regarding the prescriptions or recommendations you have received from me, if there is anything bothering you about the condition of your bird, always ask me questions, inform me about the condition of your bird before the deadline we have agreed upon.

3. I work in constant contact with my patients who are in critical condition. All my clients know that in emergency situations I am on call almost 24 hours a day.

4. My work is paid.

I work in two modes: accompanying a patient for one month or in one-time consultation mode.
What is escort? These are our actions aimed at treating your bird. The amount of communication we have with you over the course of one month directly depends on the severity of the problem being solved - in one case, it may be sufficient to carry out diagnostic measures, prescribe a course of treatment and a couple of control checks, in another case there is a need to “stay in touch” with the doctor constantly. You do not need to pay for each time you contact me for help or with questions within one month. The cost of my work is not proportional to the duration and complexity of the treatment of the bird - i.e. the cost of my work does not change and does not depend on whether after 7 days your bird recovered or whether you and I had to “stretch” your bird 24 hours a day for all 30 days.

The type of bird, its weight and size, the methods and ways in which the bird appears to you are not grounds for increasing or decreasing the cost of my services, because these parameters have no meaning for the doctor.

5. There are situations when I cannot help a sick bird.
In particular, I do not currently perform surgery, although I have many years of clinical experience in operating and developing anesthetic regimens for birds (I can advise your veterinarian on anesthesia for your bird and the choice of surgical techniques).
I can’t help when I understand that the bird’s living conditions are incompatible with its health.

6. I do not do collegial treatment for birds.
If you collect the opinions of several doctors about the condition of your bird and decide, incl. find out my opinion - then in this case, my opinion on your case is my work: the analysis and interpretation of the results of diagnostic measures available to you is subject to payment. I don't give free consultations.

If you use the prescriptions of different doctors in treating your bird, I categorically do not welcome this approach to treatment. This type of treatment often leads to the death of birds. The reason for this is the simultaneous use by bird owners different schemes treatment, use of incompatible drugs. Therefore, always tell your doctor about all medications and dosages that you are using or have used. In some cases, "collecting doctors" by bird owners is a critical parameter in the interaction between you and me - I refuse cooperation.

When treating poultry, it is fundamentally important: find a veterinarian you trust and work only according to his instructions.
Always look for a doctor with whom you can discuss the treatment of your bird without unnecessary emotions.

7. If you are a minor bird owner and want me to treat your bird, please discuss this with your parents, because I will give instructions for treating your pet to them.

1. Keep a diary. Write down in it when, what was prescribed, what was given, research results, diagnoses, periods and timing of molting, periods and timing of vitamin use and other nuances regarding the health/illness history (as you like) of your bird. It is better if you never need such information than not having it when you need it.

The cause of conflicts is the many different opinions of bird owners who “spread diagnoses” left and right, based on superficial symptoms, which, in most cases, are only external sign poor health of the bird. The bird owner should know that many diseases in birds have a visual similarity, while having a different nature of the origin of the problem - this is what the bird owner needs to remember before using the experience of a “knowledgeable forum member.” While you are looking for a doctor for your bird, collect opinions on forums and bird websites; but as soon as you decide on the attending veterinarian, work with him; From now on, treating your bird is a matter between you and your chosen veterinarian.

— If you are dissatisfied with the seller and have already begun to treat the purchased bird, then postpone the clarification of relations with the seller or the breeder for the period after the bird’s recovery, since during the treatment both the doctor and the bird require your concentration on the treatment process.

3. If you decide to change the doctor treating your bird and have already chosen one, please notify both doctors about this. This is not just politeness. This may be important in new assignments. Be prepared that you will need to name all the drugs and dosages you used.

4. When I call you at home I will teach youcatch a bird and secure it safely for administering drugs, I will teach you how to safely and correctlygive the bird medications, give injections (if necessary). When you call at home, I can show you how to trim claws and sharpen the beak.

I don't do feather trimming or wing amputation.
I don't sell drugs.
I don't take tests.
I do not send tests to the laboratory.

5. If you have questions about my treatment of your bird that you would like to discuss publicly, you can always do this on my official pages on social networks, where I have the opportunity to answer.

Total:

I treat birds of any species, whether kept at home or in kennels. I treat wild birds picked up by people on the street, but even in this case I work with your bird as a specific patient, and with you as the owner of a specific bird.

And most importantly, as a bird owner, you need to deeply understand that the health of your bird in captivity is directly related to the quality of life you provide for it. Flight is natural, vital important condition bird's body. It is in flight that the muscles work, the necessary rhythm of blood flow is ensured, the air sacs are cleared of mold, the brain turns on, instincts work - the bird lives, and does not survive.

In contact with

Birds, like any other living beings, occasionally get into trouble. Someday you may be the person who discovers an injured bird. What might the momentary impulse that prompts you to save an injured bird turn out to be? What to do next?

How can you tell if a bird needs saving?

A healthy bird will not rush into your hands in an open area, so the very fact that you were able to catch it indicates that it has injuries or illnesses.

The exception is fledglings that fly out of the nest, being poor aviators. They can be identified by special ridges in the corners of the beak and a large number tubes in the plumage of the tail (the tail usually grows last). The fledgling should be planted in the nearest bush and left alone. But keep in mind that just because the bird is still in its teens does not mean it is not traumatized. If problems are suspected, do a quick inspection before releasing them into the bush.

Also, during the nesting period, some species lead potential danger away from the nest by pretending to be wounded. Therefore, if in the warm season you are unsuccessfully chasing a bird that is clearly hanging its wings and limping, and then suddenly soars into the sky, then this is probably the option you have come across.

At times the birds are difficult to handle, but there is no doubt that they are injured (for example, their feathers are severely broken off, their wings drag on the ground, and they move exclusively by jumping and low flights). This often happens with corvids because they are strong enough to fend off cats for a while. But such a bird will not last long without human help.

Let's think soberly - to help or not to help?

The mere fact that you bring an injured or sick bird home will not greatly increase its chances of survival - you will also have to work hard. Consider how realistic it is for you to invest money and time in treatment, and whether you have the space. Do not forget that you are responsible for other people and animals living near you. Don't expect someone else to happily take on the problem. Depending on the bird species (and the severity of the injury/illness), placement may take months or even years (or may never happen at all). Usually, those who could take on the treatment of birds already have more than one patient. Sometimes it is better to let the cat finish the kill than to take the bird away and then allow the victim to slowly die from injuries and infection. By the way, having been in the mouth of a cat or dog, a bird can receive not only external scratches, but also severe, even incompatible with life, damage to internal organs.

Medical assistance should not be delayed in any case. A delay of a couple of days can lead to irreversible consequences.

Preliminary inspection. What happened?

Examine the bird. Does she have any damage?

a) The bird has wounds that look like marks from the teeth or claws of an animal.

Even if you do not immediately notice any wounds or traces of blood, you should carefully examine the entire bird, gently parting the feathers with your fingers or blowing lightly on them. The claws or teeth of some predators can leave deep puncture wounds that are invisible among the feathers. Such wounds may appear as holes or crusts of dried blood.

In this case, you will have to give the bird broad-spectrum antibiotics, which will be prescribed by a veterinarian, based on the exact weight of the bird. In no case should you give an antibiotic in a one-time dosage “by eye”, in best case scenario this will not give anything; at worst, the animal will develop a microflora resistant to this antibiotic, which will complicate further treatment.

Do not use potassium permanganate or alcohol-based preparations on wounds. It is not advisable to use hydrogen peroxide. It is permissible to wash the wound with chlorhexidine, betadine and apply levomekol.

b) The bird has an open fracture (bone fragments are visible through the wound).

Touch the wound yourself as little as possible. An urgent visit to the veterinarian is necessary. Keep the bird in a box in the dark so that it does not fight and worsen the situation. The bird will subsequently need an antibiotic (probably an injection).

c) It looks like the bird has a closed fracture (unnaturally bent or immobilized limb, bruises, bumps).

X-ray required. Don’t be afraid to irradiate your bird; there will be more benefit than harm. Similar symptoms can be due to sprains, dislocations, torn ligaments and even tumors.

d) Bullet wounds.

Alas, even within the city limits, from time to time there are victims of a person who decided to play around with a gun. The most common live targets are corvids. Bullets and shot can become lodged in soft tissue and bone and cause heavy metal poisoning, so removal is necessary. X-rays are used for diagnosis.

e) The bird lies on its stomach, legs unnaturally thrown back.

Spinal injuries often lead to this. These injuries are not always serious, it may just be swelling. X-ray required. When keeping such a bird, make sure that droppings do not stain its feathers, and also that bedsores do not appear on the chest and belly.

f) Only the plumage is damaged (flight feathers in the wings and tail are missing).

You are lucky because the plumage will be restored and the bird will be able to fly away. You just have to hold it properly while this happens.

a) The bird has a traumatic brain injury (TBI).

Most often, victims of TBI are found near glass vertical surfaces and on roads where they are hit by cars. One possible sign is an unnatural squinting of the eyes (especially if only one of them is squinted). If this is not the case, you can shine a flashlight into the bird’s eyes (one at a time) and compare how fast the pupils contract. If this speed is noticeably different, it means the bird has a TBI.

The victim of a concussion should be kept in a dark place, not heated, and under no circumstances given a lot of water, because this will lead to swelling of the brain.

b) The bird is sick

Listed below are only the most common symptoms indicating the disease:

The bird throws back or turns its head unnaturally. It can walk in circles and not hit the food with its beak (it is important to feed such a bird by hand, otherwise it will die of starvation);

the bird wheezes, sneezes, coughs, it has discharge from the nose or even the beak;

the bird has ulcers on its feet;

the bird has a white or yellow coating inside its beak;

the bird smells unpleasant (may be a consequence of simply poor nutrition and living in a garbage dump).

There are not many common diseases between birds and humans. However, it is absolutely necessary to follow the rules of hygiene:

Clean up after the bird as often as possible, do not let the droppings dry out and spray into the air. Use disinfectants for wet cleaning, but be sure to move the bird away during such cleaning to avoid poisoning;

Use individual dishes for sick birds, which should be washed separately from yours and your pets’ dishes;

Do not keep the brought bird near other pets and children. Perfect option- isolate it;

Wash your hands after handling poultry.

Leave the diagnosis to specialists, whom you contact as soon as possible. You can submit the litter for testing to a veterinary laboratory yourself (choose coprogram, bacterial culture and fungal testing).

How to care for your feathered patient?

If you don't provide the bird the right conditions and, in particular, with food, there will soon be no one to save. It all depends on what kind of representative you come across, but there are basic rules:

do not allow birds to eat food from your table, do not use bread, milk, salt, sugar and butter, do not give pork to birds;

Do not feed birds by mouth (including chewing food for them);

do not frighten the bird with your constant presence near the cage or enclosure, try to keep communication with it to a minimum, otherwise it may die from stress;

if you use a box for temporary housing, make sure that there are enough holes for air and light, but not too large so that the bird cannot escape;

if a cage is used, do not cover it with too thick and dark cloth, because the bird may not find food and water;

Do not, under any circumstances, allow a wild bird to fly around the apartment; it may collide with glass or fall behind furniture and be injured.

Try to contact the forum as soon as possible, providing photos so that they can help you with the identification. We will describe several simple options:

1) Your bird has an awl-shaped thin beak.

Some insectivores require a soft ceiling in their cage because they fly up from the floor and can injure their heads if the roof is hard. You can, for example, stretch the fabric just below the actual top of the cage. Cover the cage itself almost completely with light, air-permeable fabric so that the bird does not try to fly out through the bars, damaging the plumage and injuring itself. An alternative could be a box-type cage (only one side has a mesh, the rest are tightly closed). Do not place a deep container with water, the bird may drown. Make sure your bird has found a feeder and waterer, as it can sometimes be difficult for them to manage the dishes used for canaries and parrots.

2) The bird has a thick, short beak.

This is most likely a granivorous bird. Buy canary food. If available, you can mix it with weed seeds. You can add a couple of seeds (if the bird has a large beak).

A granivorous bird needs the same type of cage as an insectivorous bird.

3) The bird has predominantly black plumage, a very small beak and short legs on which all the toes point forward.

You have a swift. Swifts deserve special mention because their content is specific. You cannot use surrogate food, only insects are allowed, otherwise the bird will grow crooked feathers or go bald and will remain with you forever. This bird can feed itself only in flight, so you will have to feed and water it by hand several times a day.

By the way, swifts' chicks end up on the ground only if they need help.

The swift can only be kept in a box covered with soft cloth; a cage cannot be used. During manipulations, the swift should be handled with a napkin so as not to stain the plumage.

4) You have a corvid bird.

People often think that crows are scavenger birds, which means they can be fed with anything. Do not give in to the impulse to give any scraps from your table, or allow others to do so, as you could seriously harm the bird.

5) You have a bird of prey (including owls).

Don't expect to get by with store-bought chicken or sausages. You will have to look for mice and day-old chicks (you can buy them as culls at a poultry farm) or quail carcasses in feathers. It is better to keep the predator in a TV or refrigerator box for the first time. You can use a large enclosure, but in no case with a chain-link mesh. It leads to injuries and even amputation of fingers. A cage is completely unacceptable; a bird of prey will break a feather in it and be damaged. Instead of a mesh, use round wooden poles, placing them vertically.

Be careful, a bird of prey is quite capable of seriously injuring a person with both its beak and paws. Sometimes a wounded, exhausted and exhausted bird can seem completely tame if it does not have the strength to fight back. Don't be fooled and continue to take precautions. When examining a bird, it must be carefully secured, swaddled with light cloth from neck to tail. At the same time, the paws are extended along the body and over the fabric tightly, but not tightly, wrapped with tape, adhesive tape, or tied with a bandage. For safety, you should use thick gloves and try not to get under the bird's claws. You should also avoid the beak, as some feathered predators are capable of biting very hard; however, the beak is less of a problem than the claws. The head mobility of birds of prey is limited - if the bird is kept swaddled below the middle of the wings, it will not be able to reach you with its beak. Birds must also be unswaddled after procedures very carefully. It is advisable to carry out all manipulations together.

Many birds of prey are listed in the Red Book, so the finder should transfer the injured bird to a veterinary clinic or a special rehabilitation center as quickly as possible. We recommend that you use the forum to find out the coordinates of such centers located near you. Do not throw birds under the doors of clinics; this is not help and can end badly for the birds.

6) You have a dove

Do not grab the pigeon by the tail; it will immediately shed its feathers to free itself from you.

7) You have a duck

Place the bird in a large box, offer cereals cooked without salt, butter, sugar and milk: rice, buckwheat, oatmeal, millet (you can boil the cereals only until the water boils, you can pour boiling water and leave in a thermos so that the porridge is soft but crumbly) . Be sure to place the water in a bowl that the bird will not tip over. Duck droppings are liquid, so take care of the bedding (for example, you can use a baby absorbent diaper). Change it when it gets dirty.

How to release a bird after treatment and whether it should be done.

Usually people who select birds for nursing hope to release them later. Here, too, not everything is so simple.

Almost any case of wing fractures results in reduced maneuverability for birds, even after the bone has healed. Dislocations, torn ligaments and some other injuries can lead to the same problems. If the bird cannot maneuver in flight, if its wings droop even a little, forget about releasing it. For a small bird, such freedom will end in the claws of a predator; for a bird of prey, it will end in starvation due to the inability to fully hunt.

For a predator, broken paws (also used for hunting) are also fraught with exhaustion and death.

Birds with whirligig (even if it occurs rarely) should not be released. Attacks triggered by stress will make them easy targets.

Birds with eye or beak damage should not be released.

If the bird has become tame during treatment, then release into the wild may end badly. As a last resort, you can try to gradually move the bird outside. For example, by releasing it in the garden near a feeder and keeping fertilizing to a minimum for a long time. This is only permissible if the bird did not live with you for long (less than six months).

If the bird has spent a long time in your home (a year or more), then it’s not worth the risk. During this period, the muscles become weaker, and the bird gets used to receiving food from the feeder.

Release into the wild in winter is highly undesirable. At this time there is little food. In addition, after being in your warm apartment, the bird may fade into less fluffy plumage and frosts will become deadly for it. It is best to release birds from May to September, while there is a lot of variety of food around and temperatures allow them to adapt.

Birds are released only if their plumage is not damaged or dirty (and after manipulations during which the bird is held by hand, the feathers often become dirty and disheveled). You can offer your bird a bath for proper plumage care when he is healthy enough for this.

What can be done to make wild birds less injured and sick?

As with many things, preventative measures save more lives than subsequent treatment, and we can truly make a difference.

1) If you own a glass structure, you can stick silhouettes of birds of prey on it. This will significantly reduce the number of people wishing to fly through it. You can also apply a subtle pattern to the glass, allowing birds to notice the obstacle.

2) If you have a greenhouse, leave windows in it so that birds can fly out. Do not chase the bird around the greenhouse; when stressed, it is less able to find a way out and is more likely to hit its head and injure itself.

3) If you have a cat, do not let it roam around the area. If you still want the animal to warm up, put a bell around its neck, allowing the birds to notice the danger in time (some cats get used to the bell and learn to sneak around without it ringing). Cats should not be considered natural enemies of birds. It is man who is to blame for the proliferation of cats.

4) Do not throw away garbage outside designated areas. Many injuries and illnesses in animals (not just birds) are associated with the fact that they get entangled in our garbage or eat it.

5) Be careful when using netting to protect trees from deer, as birds may become entangled in it. The same thing can happen if you dry fishing nets on bushes.

6) Do not feed birds food that is not suitable for them (bread, milk, leftovers from the human table). Do not use roasted or salted seeds or peanuts. Be sure to find out what the species you want to feed eats. Don't put salt water in your garden.

Treat nature with care!

Methods and techniques for splinting injured birds. A wounded bird or animal must first be fed and allowed to rest before treating the wound. The exception is those cases when urgent intervention is required due to threatening bleeding.

A wounded bird may die from shock during treatment, but it is even more likely that it will die from blood loss - a risk factor that must be taken into account. When treating a wound or healing a fracture, keep a glass of milk, syrup or sugar ready. If the bird's stress worsens and there is rapid breathing, give the patient a few drops of fluid and provide a short rest before continuing the operation.

Sometimes an injured bird needs to be restrained; do it this way: cut a hole in the sock, place the bird inside, leave the head outside so that it can breathe freely. Then it should be placed in a dark box and kept warm until the operation begins.

We always operated on birds while holding them on our laps in a towel. It's more convenient than bending over a table. Lightly support the bird by the forearms - this will calm it down, but be careful not to go into shock.

To treat a wound, the following is required: sterile gauze, adhesive tape, small scissors, tweezers, cardboard, disinfectants, ointments, towel, cloth. All this should be on the table within reach. First of all, prepare a few strips of adhesive tape. You may also need gauze swabs to treat open wounds; prepare them in advance so that they are the appropriate size. Don't forget to put a glass of sweetened milk on the table and place a pipette in a visible place.

It is important that the bird cannot move while the splint is being applied.. When you have to deal with large birds, it is good if someone else is nearby. The legs of birds of prey must be bandaged so as to be completely protected from their sharp claws. Learning to hold a bird while providing first aid is a great art in itself. When treating smaller birds, it is not necessary to resort to anyone's help. Extra hands just get in the way.

It is advisable that no strangers observe her during operations. The bird will remain calm if it does not notice your movements. Place a piece of cloth over the patient's head so that the bird cannot see anything without interfering with normal breathing. If you are treating a small bird, place it in a sock and cut one hole in it for the injured wing or leg and another for the head. Wrap a large bird in a large piece of cloth, in which you also make a hole to release the damaged wing or leg. Secure the material well with safety pins, but do not press it too tightly near the head so that the bird can breathe freely. Sometimes it is enough for small birds to throw a cloth over their head to calm them down and allow them to tend to their wound. But even in this case, keep a sock ready.

There is an opinion that a bird with a broken leg, left alone, heals itself. This point of view is not far from the truth. However, we have seen many birds whose legs fused incorrectly and the birds were left crippled. Therefore, if you receive a bird with a broken leg, apply a splint. This is especially important for robins and quails, since they run along the ground in search of food. The activity of various birds depends significantly on their anatomical features. You should know as much as possible about your feathered patient. Immediately obtain all the necessary information from sources, it is advisable to consult with a specialist.

It is not always possible to say with complete certainty that the leg is broken. But if the bird cannot bend the limb, then it has a fracture, which after a thorough examination can be detected. Sometimes the bird only gets hurt by hitting, for example, a car windshield wiper. In this case, there is no need to apply a splint. You just need to provide the bird with normal nutrition and rest and it will begin to recover. Quite often, birds become entangled in twigs while building a nest or on a rope left by someone. When trying to free yourself, the joints may stretch, causing the leg to become immobile. When sprained, a splint is also not required.

We also saw birds that, entangled in a rope, tore off the skin on their legs, but did not receive a fracture. Lubricating the injured area with antiseptic ointments and sterile bandages promote rapid healing of the wound. Don't rush to splint the bird's leg. First, outline a plan of action, then check whether you have everything you need for this. The grip should be firm, confident, but careful. It should not be forgotten that the bones of flying birds are hollow and narrow, as a result of which they can easily break if grabbed too tightly. The fragility of wings should also be taken into account when constructing cages for convalescing birds. Land birds have stronger bones, but waterfowl have the strongest bones. Remember that there should always be water and food on the floor near the cage where birds with fractures are kept.